Fwd: Organizing local AGA group

[krandall@world.std.com]

Hi All, 

Thought you might be interested in this.  I've cc'd the list with my response
as well.

Karen

>
> Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 20:40:25 +0530 
> To: krandall@world.std.com 
> From: john glaeser <jglaeser@facstaff.wisc.edu> 
> Subject: Organizing local AGA group 
>
> I have been urged to form an Aquatic Gardeners Club of some kind for the
> Madison, Wisconsin area.  We are having an organizational meeting on the last
> Thursday in January.  At the meeting some might ask about forming a local
> group of the AGA. What is the experience out there with such a group? Is
> there a way of identifying AGA members who might be attracted to the group we
> are forming?  If we affiliate with AGA officially what are the
> responsibilities and expectations of such a connection? 
>
> I'm recently retired. Through the years I have become comfortable with
> creating beautiful planted tanks with plants as the filter with hardly a
> trace of algae, no Ammonia, no nitrite and no detectable nitrate. The 75
> gallon show tank I've made for a small aquarium shop in the neighborhood gets
> a lot of comments.  Since I spend lots of volunteer hours there helping folks
> become successful with planted aquariums I get urgings to start a club. Many
> customers are from the University of Wisconsin and combine good science
> background and a flare for aesthetics. 
>
> I've included something I've prepared which gives an idea of the orientation
> I give to customers making their first step with a planted tank. 
>
>
> FRESH WATER PLANTED AQUARIUMS 
>
> Creating a great looking tank brimming with gorgeous plants with hardly a
> trace of algae in sight is very much attainable. The key is using plants as
> the filter. With an abundance of healthy plants excess nutrients from fish
> waste are used up before algae can get at it.  And in the process fish will
> get oxygen they need, thanks to the plants. 
>
> Consider these guidelines: 
>
> SUBSTRATE 
>
> A nutrient based substrate helps plants develop strong roots. Many approaches
> are being used with success. Commercial clay based substrate additives such
> as Terralit and Flourite work well. Some use kitty litter, soil and a variety
> of other mixtures. 
>
> I've been trying out top soil in combination with a baked illite clay from
> Aimcor. One form of this material has a regular fine grained texture and is
> called Profile. Less expensive is Turface which is similar but has an
> irregular texture. These soil amendments have a high CEC with a strong
> affinity for potassium, and other nutrients. The product holds nutrients and
> makes them available to the roots. This functions as a nutrient depot. 
>
> My tanks have three inches of substrate. The very bottom 1/2" layer consists
> of medium sized natural aquarium gravel.  On top of this is a 1 1/2" mixture
> of one part Turface and one part top soil. I use an ACE Hardware brand top
> soil which doesn't contain additional fertilizers. It does contain bacterial
> cultures.  Some would prefer a sterilized soil. The ACE potting soil is just
> like the regular top soil but is sterilized. The next layer is 1/2" rinsed
> Turface.  The finishing top is 1/2" fine grained rinsed aquarium gravel. The
> idea here is nutrients in the soil will migrate to the porous Profile /
> Turface particles. This might help prevent excessive leaching into the water
> column  as the tank gets established. Through time the clay is seen as
> releasing nutrients to the roots as roots make contact. 
>
> Prior to filling the tank with water a flat dinner plate is placed on top of
> the gravel. This serves as a target to disperse the water stream when filling
> the tank.  Some nutrients will leach out from the substrate so after a day I
> drain out the water expecting this will remove the excess nutrients reducing
> the chances of an algae bloom. The tank is filled again using a mixture of RO
> water and hard tap water in a proportion that forms a Carbonate Hardness of
> KH9 or so. In our community that means 1/2 RO and 1/2 tap. In general,
> tropical plants don't do well in highly alkaline water.  Plants take a few
> weeks to get established and efficient in getting nutrients though the roots
> and through the leaves.  Water with a general hardness of GH 6 and a
> carbonate hardness of about KH 9 should help to get the plants off to a good
> start. They have stored nutrients in their system so they will be fine until
> they are fully acclimated. This is why we don't want to add liquid fertilizer
> right away.  It could cause an algae bloom because some algae spore always
> seem to be around and will take off if the water column is rich in
> nutrients.  By preventing algae from getting a head start we will eliminate a
> lot of headaches later. 
>
> PLANTS 
>
> Plant heavily with fast growing quick oxygenating species such as Rotala
> rotundifolia, Hygrophila polysperma, Cabomba, Ambulia, Vallisneria.  As long
> as the majority of the planting is of fast growers one could also introduce
> slower more permanent types like Swords and Anubia.  Cryptocoryne species
> might best be planted later because they acclimate better to water that has
> become more complicated. In about three weeks the plants will be fantastic.
> Spurts of new growth indicate that  a moderate dose of micronutrient
> supplement with iron would be in order.  During this break in period the only
> fish you would like to have in there would be algae eaters like Otocinclus
> and true siamensis which won't need feeding. More likely than not in a new
> tank some algae will be showing up. These little helpers get to work for you
> then. 
>
> LIGHTING 
>
> Opinions abound concerning what to use for lighting. Fluorescent units are
> most frequently used and bulb prices range from $2 specials from discount
> stores to expensive designer bulbs from most aquarium stores. If
> generalizations can be made inexpensive bulbs can be expected to have lower
> light level or lumens and may have shorter useful life span. 
> I've come to prefer a 5000K Phillips Ultralume that will have a price ranging
> from $15 to over $20 depending where one can find them. It has a nice major
> spike in the warm red and good minor spike in the blue area plus a strong
> spike in the green which helps deliver the high lumens. Comparing 4' bulbs: 
> An Ultralume has an initial lumens of 3280 with an average life of 20000
> hours. A Colortone 50, 5000K is 2000 lumens with 20000 hours. A utility shop
> light is 1860 lumens with an average life of 12000 hours. Folks tend to go
> with what the budget will allow. Sometimes people use a gro-lux type plant
> bulbs. They experience a lot of algae growth because this type of bulb has a
> strong spike in the deep red area good for forcing blooms in house plants but
> notorious for promoting algae in aquarium.  With only about 1200 lumens there
> is not enough intensity be effective beyond about 4" in the aquarium.
> Sometimes inexpensive ballasts in shop light fixtures may burn  out bulbs
> faster compared with standard aquarium instruments. 
>
> The discussion can be full of variables. If a tank is not deep one may not
> need the brightest of lights.  Some tank strategies have fast growing plants
> located along the two sides and the back that grow to the top and begin to
> float across creating a canopy. They get a great hit of light and will create
> lots a oxygen. Underneath the canopy low light type plants like anubia and
> crypts will do fine. Perhaps here a lower light level will work. On the other
> hand the deeper tanks do need brighter bulbs to help maximize the
> photosynthesis process. 
>
> My lights are on 16 hours and off 8 hours. The short night period has a
> purpose with a heavily planted tank having a number of fish.  At night both
> the fish and the plants use oxygen and give off CO2. If the dark period is
> too long the fish may suffer because of a shortage of oxygen. In terms of
> fish density and plant mass the variables are too complicated for me know
> when an oxygen problem will happen.  I've done some simple trial and error
> settings and have come to feel safe with the 16 hours on and 8 hours off.  As
> added insurance some people have an air pump  activating an air stone that
> kicks in at night to create surface agitation to provide additional
> oxygenation. 
>
> CO2 
>
> Carbon from CO2 is essential for plants to grow well. Carbon is necessary for
> creating plant tissue and the most efficient way for plants to get carbon is
> from CO2. Many excellent filters are designed to oxygenate the water by
> agitating the surface of the water. This is a good way of providing oxygen
> for the fish.  However, in the process CO2 is driven out of the water column.
> The result is that plants become stunted. Traditional filtration strategies
> promote the nitrogen cycle. Bacteria convert ammonium to nitrite to nitrate. 
> For most aquatic plants nitrate is not the easiest from of nitrogen for them
> to use. They do best using ammonium which happens up front as organic waste
> begins to decay. Many algae seem to take to nitrate and this could cause
> problems. It really is a game to make sure the valued plants are working at
> maximum efficiency and to discourage opportunistic algae from depositing on
> plant leaves. Algae suffocates the plants and prevents them from getting
> sufficient light needed for robust photosynthesis. 
>
> Having a glass top on the tank and providing for a quiet water surface helps
> to keep more CO2 in the water column and available for the plants. Using a
> submersible pump provides the flexibility to reduce water turbulence as
> needed.  These units can be positioned up or down and out flow direction can
> be adjusted to minimize surface agitation. Having a water current below the
> surface provides additional benefits such as dislodging waste particles from
> the leaves, distributing nutrients throughout the water column and equalizing
> the water temperature throughout the tank. Finally, the pump sponge located
> at the water intake captures small waste particles. 
>
> Adding CO2 to the tank can boost the growth of plants and increase their
> ability to produce oxygen. This helps assure that the higher plants get any
> excess nutrients before algae nab it. Whether by compressed tanks or by
> sugar, yeast, two liter cola bottle method, adding CO2 has a place in
> nurturing a healthy planted tank. 
>
> CO2 lowers the pH.  If one has KH 9 water and arrives at pH 7.3 or so this
> will means the water will have about 16 to 17 mg/L which is about right for
> plants and not too high as to interfere with fish respiration. It is
> important not to add too much CO2. George Booth has an excellent article on
> the subject in the December 1997 issue of Aquarium Fish Magazine. 
>
> MAINTENANCE 
>
> Once things are up and going with the desired fish population weekly water
> changes of about 25% is a good idea. Plants will welcome the replenishment of
> vital trace elements that come with fresh tap water. If your community treats
> the water with a good measure of  chorine or chloramine set aside tap water
> in open 5 gallon containers to let these chemicals escape. One can add an air
> stone to drive off the gases as well.  This is preferable to using a
> dechlorinator to treat the water. These chemicals could retard the
> assimilation of valuable nutrients by the plants.  In a heavily planted tank
> using a good liquid micronutrient supplement with iron when doing a water
> change is desirable. As time goes on it might appear that some specific
> plants appear to need additional fertilization. Iron rich root tabs might
> help here. During the week keep a watch on the pH and CO2 fertilization
> process. 
>
> Each water change presents an opportunity to do necessary gardening.  A
> healthy tank will become robust!  Harvest, trim back, remove any algae that
> is beginning and rearrange things as your artistic judgment indicates. 
>
> CONCLUSION: 
>
> If you like gardening you are in for a good time, year round! 
>