RE: [AGA Member] Aquarium Planning -- or - Have a nice trip, not a shocking one

["S. Hieber" <shieber@yahoo.com>]

The danger probably is neither worse nor better othan using
a 110-120V tube heater. Somewhat different possibilities of
exposing wires -- with tube heaters it's cracking the
glass; with cables, it's cutting the insulation. I wouldn't
hazard a guess over which has a higher probability.

In either case you absolutely should have them plug into a
GFCI, which should trip in the event that a current
carrying wire is exposed to the water. And a ground probe
wouldn't be a bad idea either; it would offer current an
alternate path to ground during the 25/1000 of a second
that it takes the GFCI to trip.

Scott H.
--- Nathan Freedenberg <gnatster@comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> My fear is the "affordable" system from Aquarium
> Landscapes is 110v. I
> have been shocked by tanks before by malfunctioning power
> heads and it
> is not pretty. The Dupla system is 24v, in the event of a
> failure the
> Dupla system would only knock back to the couch while the
> 110v system
> would send me over the couch. A grounding rod in the tank
> will be some
> help. 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Nathan
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aga-member@thekrib.com
> [mailto:owner-aga-member@thekrib.com]
> On Behalf Of Dennis Sheridan
> Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2004 4:50 PM
> To: aga-member@thekrib.com
> Subject: Re: [AGA Member] Aquarium Planning
> 
> Just a personal opinion but I don't buy into the Dupla
> heating cable
> theory. It's never been demonstrated to me that cables
> produce any
> benefit to plants above that provided by a good substrate
> and proper
> nutrients.
> 
> CO2 diffusers are good. A lot of people like the Eheim
> which
> includes a bubble counter. And you can hide a diffuser in
> the back
> rather than have the CO2 fed through a powerhead. You
> should be able
> to easily fit a 10# bottle in the stand. I like the Fabco
> needle
> valve and don't use a solenoid. Unnecessary expense, like
> the
> heating cables, imho.
> 
> I would have a few algae/detritus cleaners in the tank
> just to help
> the cycling along. Don't feed them any additional food.
> Then when
> you are ready, add just a few fish at a time to avoid
> spikes and
> unbalances.  I know many people insist that Discus and
> others
> require high temps, but I had Discus breeding just fine
> at 74
> degrees. Several nannostromus sp., otos, etc. all
> flourished and
> bred fine (except the pencil fish, they aren't breeding)
> without
> high temps. That allows me to grow whatever plants I want
> as well as
> even more savings on the electrical bill.  As you can
> tell, I'm very
> big on keeping the electric bill manageable. As always,
> fwiw, imho,
> ymmv, etc.  Good luck with your new tank!
> 
> -d
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Nathan Freedenberg" <gnatster@comcast.net>
> 
> > Howdy,
> >
> > Just joined this list and I am planning a planted tank.
> This is my
> first
> > foray into the realm of planted aquaria. I've read
> tons, talked to
> some
> > folks at the lfs that are successful in keeping planted
> aquaria
> and have
> > come up with a basic idea and plan. My background is in
> reef and
> African
> > aquaria.
> >
> > The Plan:
> > Tank: AGA 210 with overflows. 72x24x30. AGA Stand 28"
> tall
> >
> > Lighting: AB 72" AquaSpaceLight 3 w/ 3 6500k 250w MH 
> and 2 24w
> Actinic
> > Blue. Hang above open topped tank
> >
> > Sump: 40 Breeder 36x18x16 Provisions for two tank
> drains into 100
> micron
> > filter bag, channel for foam polishing sponge. Sump to
> include
> > Heat 2x200 submersible
> > CO2 Diffuser (I'm leaning toward the Aqua Medic
> Membrane type,
> unsure of
> > size needed)
> > Return Pump: 2x 600gph @ 5' external
> > All plumbing connections will have true unions w/ gate
> valves in
> > schedule 40 pvc
> >
> > Substrate Heating: I'm leaning to the 100w from
> aquariumlandscapes.net
> > (Pros/Cons?) I've looked at the Dupla setup and it runs
> over $1000
> for
> > this size aquarium, that's a budget buster in a big
> way.
> >
> > CO2 System: 5 or 10lb bottle, depends what fits
> standing up in the
> > stand. 2 Stage regulator w/solenoid controlled via CO2
> controller
> from
> > aquariumlandscapes.net set on timer not come on when
> lights are
> off. Do
> > I need a bubble counter with that kind of setup?
> Recommended ones
> if
> > needed? I'm also not 100% on a diffuser,
> recommendations please.
> >
> > Substrate: 3"-3.5" in depth.  1" layer CaribSea Amazon,
> 1" layer
> mixed
> > 2/3 CaribSea Amazon, 1/3 Laterite , 1" layer CaribSea
> Amazon to
> top off.
> > Assorted rocks and driftwood to created a visually
> pleasing (to
> me)
> > display.
> >
> > What am I missing hardware wise besides the incidentals
> like a
> > thermometer, timers etc?
> >
> > My plan is to cycle the tank with fast growing plants
> only, no
> fish.
> > Once cycled some of the fast growers will be removed
> and I will
> > aquascape to a more visually appealing (to me) setup
> and start
> adding
> > swimming livestock. Ultimately leading to a nice shoal
> of discus
> and
> > other denizens to form an Amazon biotype.
> >
> > Thoughts, comments, concerns?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Nathan
> 
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=====
S. Hieber

-  -   -   -   -   -   -   -
Amano Returns
to the AGA Annual Convention
Nov 2004 -- Baltimore

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