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Re: [AGA Member] CO2 efficiency in hard water

Well I did increase a bit the CO2 levels...
I will stop aerating in a couple of days.
I will try to target to PH 7.0 hopefully at about 30ppm.
Although I still think that as for now the CO2 system wasn't that dominant
in the process because of my water parameters - Would be nice to try this
for a period of time (just a thought ;-))
I am thinking that even removing the system - thus would generate a slight
increase in about 0.1/0.2 degrees in PH, assuming as well that KH levels are
the same - I would end up at about 14-16 ppm of CO2. I still think that
plants at least the hard water lovers of them can do quite well in hard
water conditions, even without injecting CO2.
But I will take the opposite approach thus - adding more CO2 and even more
Thanks again,

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "S. Hieber" <shieber@yahoo.com>
To: <aga-member@thekrib.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2004 5:56 PM
Subject: Re: [AGA Member] CO2 efficiency in hard water

> --- Amit Brucker <amitb@gtek.co.il> wrote:
> >
> > That's the point!!!! I bet if i'll take it out,my PH will
> > stay or raise to 7.3/4 I would expect much higher PH
> > levels....yes I am trying for a long time to understand
> > why does it not effect the PH.....
> >
> > >
> > I agree on that.... just affraid a bit I guess.
> If the water is circulating well, you're unlikely to have
> any catestrophic condition if you turn off the aeration.
> If you have lots of plants and circulationm the water will
> have oxygen.
> Although O2 levels will decline at night, so will the
> fishes need for it -- they become very still during the
> dark -- at those that are not crepuscular or nocturnal.
> > > So now you take all day to try to build up the levels
> > > again, only to literally blow them out of hte water
> > each
> > > night.
> > >
> > > I'd like to know if any other acids are in the water.
> > > Stop the nightly aeration -- rely on your plants for
> > > oxygenating the water during the day. After
> > staturation,
> > > the levels will be fine all night.
> > Yes well this I might try....and I agree it will remove
> > exess CO2 out of the water but I will try
> > However I think the problem is my KH as well which is
> > relativly high...
> Basically, KH *will not* affect your CO2 or O2 levels.
> Also, CO2 does not displace O2 nor does O2 displace CO2 in
> the water. But CO2 feeding the plants makes the plants put
> O2 in thewater.  CO2 for the plants, plants for O2, fish
> (food/poop) for other ferts for the plants.
> Do 50% weekly water changes to reduce the impact on any
> organics producing acids.
> Raise the CO2 level to get up to 30 ppm  just to see if
> you can lower pH by doing so. That's 30 ppm *before* the
> lights come on -- the level might drop as low as 15-20 ppm
> after the lights have been on for 6 hours or so.
> On my tanks with the CO2 running constantly, day and night,
> and no aerators, the pH only changes 0.2 units between it's
> lowest and highest points. And the fish never seem stressed
> for O2. So running CO2 constant and not aerating needn't
> cause wild pH swings nor an O2 shortage at night.
> If raising the CO2 level causes the fish to be gasping at
> the surface early in the morning before lights on, then the
> level is probably too high -- back it off a bit. If not
> gasping, then level is not too high.
> But don't stop the aeration and increase the CO2 at the
> same time or you won't be able to tell what's causing
> gasping, it if occures. So first stop the aeration and then
> check the fish before the lights come on. If not gasping,
> then raise the CO2 up to what seems to measure out at 30
> ppm.
> With CO2, over a week or two, you should be able to see
> more rapid growth in your fast growing plants (swords, most
> stem plants) and generally less algae problems  -- even if
> something in your water is messing up being able to rely on
> the CO2/KH/pH table.
> sh
> =====
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