FishNet Explore 97 - Daily Diary - August 2, 1997

[William Vannerson <William_Vannerson@ama-assn.org>]

Daily Diary - August 2, 1997
 
 Today was a day of contrasts for members of the Explore
Team.  
 
 I was up quite early this morning with the thought that I need
to trek back to Eurinipe to find my other gear and
medications.  My belongs left in Eurinepe included some
clean socks as well as other possible medications for my
cut.
 
 Although I did not speak any Portuguese I was able to
communicate with my hosts and get him to agree to lead my
back.  I wanted to leave as early as possible in order to avoid
the heat and sun of the early afternoon.  My host, who I
learned maintains this part of the "farm" for an absent
landowner who visits whenever the roadway is passable by
four-wheel vehicle....about once in every couple of years....
told me that the cross country trek would take about two (2)
hours.  
 
 I packed up most of my things and left them with the
understanding that when Heiko, Paola and the porters exited
the jungle area they would pick them up.  Armed with a day's
water supply for me (about two quarts) and the
computer/satellite phone we headed out around 7:30 am.  I
did not arrive until 12:30 pm. 
 
 This trek was quite different from the one we took to start
this effort.  Instead of following the "roadway" my host took
me across country through all sorts of jungle areas.  I saw a
number of birds, some pigs and lizards.  As we got closer to
town I even had an encounter with a bull.  This specific area
had been cleared for cattle farming.  Along the pathway a
local farmer was pulling a bull behind his mule.  The bull was
definitely not interested in going along peacefully.  The bull
would range from one side of the pathway to the other
destroying most everything in its way.  My host had me stop
and indicated I needed to climb a small tree.  Up I went and
watched as the bull passed just a few feet away underneath
me still rampaging everything in its way.
 
 When we neared the airport we came across a person with a
small car who agreed (he was heading to Eirunepe
anywhay.....where else could he go?) to drive me the final
distance to the hotel.  
 
 Upon arrival I cleaned my wound, consumed several bottles
of lemonade and immediately fell asleep for a couple of hours.
 When I got up I began to submit the backlog of photos I had
taken (a limited number of those due to satellite
transmission).  At about 5 pm I was officially caught up, sore
foot and all.
 
 The rest of the day proceeded very casually.  After the
conference (9 pm) I went back to my room and got ready for
bed.  By now I had my personal belongings spread over three
(3) different places in Brazil.  In Manaus at the Tropical Hotel I
had my "good" stuff, in my room I had my "fair" - but clean -
stuff, and still out in the countryside was my tent, sleeping
bag, generator, toileteries and such.  
 
 I dozed off quite blissfully.  
 
 Some time later I heard someone quietly call out  "John,
John" outside my window. After a moment or two to orient
myself I recognized the voice as that of Paola.  They were
locked outside the hotel and needed me to let them in.  
 
 It was now about 11 pm and the rest of the Explore Team
was now arriving.  They had started back at around 5:30 am,
arriving at around 11 pm.  They had covered approximately 50
kilometers that day. 
 
 Heiko was literally giddy with the excitment of the past two
days.  They had made a successful trip to the targeted river
systems.  They had been, as Heiko called it, in "pure nature"
with no obvious impact from man.  
 
 While Sunday's conference will offer more of the details,
Heiko took over 1,500 photographs.  They collected on
streams #8 - #18 (each stream/area collected is assigned a
new number under his tracking system).  In his efforts they
found several suspected new _genera_ of fishes including one
that might be the link between the Neon Tetra and Cardinal
Tetra.  This fish is a solid metallic blue throughout the body
with red in the fin area.  Unfortunately only one specimen was
found, which will make establishment of new genera most
difficult. 
 
 Heiko continued that the trek was most difficult with any
pathway being limited to climbing between the tree trunks. 
What may have been an established pathway for yesterday
was washed out by the same monsoon-like rain storm I
experienced with them.  Heiko described the bottom area as
containing up to three feet of fallen leaves.  
 
 In addition to the new Tetra, Heiko also found a killifish that
was extremely exciting to him.  I'm sure that after a night's
rest I'll see (and hear) much more about what he collected.
 
 Heiko also told of seeing wild pigs, finding what was left of an
Indian tribe, many birds, new insects never before recorded
by science, and a spider monkey. 
 
 It is apparent that much of this trip will continue to be told in
the weeks after our return as photos are developed and
processed.   I am definitely struck by the insignificance of
any personal hardship I feel I am experiencing.  A trek of 50
kilometers, of which more than half was through the dense
virgin jungle with no established trail, in Brazil in August is a
fete worthy of most marathon atheletes.  To add to this the
task of stopping to collect at every newly encountered stream
and manage some 200 pounds in collecting gear and
camping equipment leaves me in pure wonderment at the
fanatical force which drives Heiko.  
 
 To be sure what Paola experienced in the past 48 hours in
no small fete for a woman.  She could barely climb the one
flight starcase at the hotel when she arrived.  After a quick
shower for both of them I joined them next door at what is
becoming Heiko's exclusive restaurant and watched Paola as
she made short work of a chicken, beans, rice and most
anything else that was available.  I even jokingly suggested
that I could find some ketchup and put it on cardboard and
that she would probably eat it too.  She smiled and noddingly
agreed.   Despite her personal sacrifices it is very apparent
that the force behind this effort is Heiko.  I'm sure that Paola
had to keep up or else face the possibility of getting lost in
the jungle. 
 
 Having spent almost a week with Heiko I am fascinated
beyond belief with the energies and dedication this man has
for fishes and nature as a whole.  Even at 11 pm tonight he is
already working on organizing a 7 am effort for tomorrow.  
 
 Our world is blessed with few such pioneers.  We all
recognize the impact Jacques Costeau had on our learning
more about nature.  In every respect Heiko has, without a lot
of the monies Costeau had available to him, made such an
impact on the aquarium hobby.   He is truly a pioneer for all. 
We all may know better the names Axelrod, Baensch,
Socoloff, or Loiselle, but we owe much more in this hobby to
Heiko than any of these individuals.  It is shameful that there
are those in the luxury of modern day living who wish for us
not to know more about Heiko and his many expeditions. 
The personal vendetta with which one such person has
chosen to target Heiko has meant the loss of many
expedition opportunities.  
 
 ==John==
 Reporting from Eirunepe