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Re: [GSAS-Member] Algae control



Just a thought.  How long do you leave your bulbs on each day?  I've been told 
that algae likes longer "days", so my tanks are on a strict 11 hour timer.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: John Ruhland<mailto:john@drruhland.com> 
  To: Greater Seattle Aquarium Society member 
chat<mailto:gsas-member@thekrib.com> 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2005 11:48 PM
  Subject: Re: [GSAS-Member] Algae control


  Paul,
  Thank you for your response.
  It is a 72 gallon with many plants, 8 baby daffodil Brichardi (from 
  Susan), and one Leporinus fasciatus, about 10 inches long.
  pH 7.4
  KH 80
  GH 80
  Nitrite, Nitrate, and ammonia have always been very low, usually not 
  even measurable.

  I have added small amounts of epsom salt in the past, and still add a 
  small amount of rock salt, about 1 tbsp with every water change (about 
  15-20 gallons).
  I have also added SSKI (Iodine) and Oregon Grape Root extract (a 
  powerful natural antibiotic I make), but this was some time, and 
  numerous water changes, ago.
  I added a multi vitamin (Kent Zoe), and buffered Vitamin C, and a very 
  small amount of essential fatty acids (Kent Zoecon), but that was some 
  time ago as well.
  After a water change 2 times ago, all the small snails mysteriously 
  died. That might hold the key to the problem. I did not use any new 
  sponges, soaps, or any cleaning
  materials. I've stopped using a small amount of Aquasafe that I had 
  used in the past to remove the chlorine. I do not recall if I used 
  Aquasafe at that water change two
  times ago, although I think I did use it. Months ago I used Ichstop in 
  that tank, the only other medicine I have used up until now.

  Lighting began as twin 48" bulbs. Then I turned them off for over one 
  day. Then I switched to a new light containing 4 65 watt twin tubes.
  (My reading suggested changing lighting, either decreasing or 
  increasing, could eliminate algae. It would probably require turning 
  the lights off,
  or even covering the tank, for three days to make a difference.) None 
  of the light changes helped.

  Let me know if any other info would be useful to know.
  Regards,
  John


  On Mar 16, 2005, at 10:13 PM, Paul M Wallace wrote:

  > John:
  >
  > It has been several years since I had green water(result of a pH down 
  > product) and it seems that GW is aggravated by ammonia.  With that 
  > said you probably have an imbalance of nutrients.  The good news is 
  > that when balance is restored, the GW will go away.
  >
  > So I am curious about your water parameters.  How much light, are you 
  > adding carbon or nutrients?
  >
  > -Paul
  >
  > In the past few weeks, I've had an algae problem as well. Rather than  
  > coating any surfaces, it simply turns my water green. While it is a  
  > pretty color, I am unable to see anything more than about 4-5 inches  
  > from the glass. I've added two filters to the original filter. The  
  > pleated paper filter that came with the Magnum canister filter, and  
  > that I was told would turn water crystal clear, has not filtered out  
  > anything, so it must be only a few microns in size. Besides the magnum 
  >  filter, I have a Magnum HOT, and a Marineland Emperor with Bio-wheel. 
  >  At first I changed the water every day or two and added a bit of 
  > salt,  thinking that would slow the growth of algae, but since that 
  > did not  show much improvement, I decided to wait it out. Any 
  > recommendations  would be helpful. Anita recommended getting tiny 
  > organisms that would  eat the algae.
  >
  > Fortunately, the fish seem to be doing alright.
  > Thank you,
  > John
  >
  >
  >
  > It is the tank where I put most of the plants I got at the plant sale  
  > as well.
  >
  >
  >
  >
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  >



  Dr. John F. Ruhland
  The Natural Health Medical Clinic
  4002 - 25th Avenue S, Seattle, WA 98108
  206-723-4891
  www.drruhland.com<http://www.drruhland.com/>

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