Hi John: I would try to capitalize on the green water situation by adding a daphnia culture to the tank. Free live food!!!!!!!!! Susan -------------- Original message -------------- > This discussion has been helpful. > > Since my Nitrate measures "0," I'll try to raise that. If necessary, > I'll then add potassium salts. > Magnesium is next, in the form of epsom salts. > I recently added calcium carbonate (crushed seashells) to increase the > pH, so calcium should > be plentiful. > My substrate is fluorite. > I'm not quite ready to invest time and money in CO2 equipment. If > anyone has some used equipment > for sale, though, I'd consider it. > > My canister filter is 2/3 carbon and 1/3 zeollite. I emptied that out > this morning. I think the carbon filtration > adsorbed a lot of minerals and trace minerals, and the zeolite and > carbon absorbed the available nitrogen. > > My three other tanks have had none of the green water problem. I'm > scratching my head trying to remember > what I did differently. The zeolite is the only difference that I can > think of - I used it because I ran out of carbon, > so I topped off the holder with zeolite. > > If I was looking at deficiencies in people, I'd know better how to > correct the imbalances. Considering the genetic > similarities between people and fish (and even plants, if I remember > correctly), it should be fairly easy to learn > what specific nutritional deficiencies look like in fish and plants. > Hole-in-the-head disease in Oscars, for instance, > is caused by Vitamin D deficiency according to two books (including the > Handbook of Fish Diseases) that I read. > Does anyone know if fish create Vitamin D in their "skin" when exposed > to the sun, as we do? If so, do any of the > available fluorescent lights provide the wavelengths necessary to > produce it? > > John > > > On Mar 17, 2005, at 11:25 AM, Paul M. Wallace wrote: > > > John: > > > > I agree with everything that has been posted. You need to feed your > > plants! > > Another version of PMDD is the Estimative Index of Dosing by Tom Barr > > http://www.barrreport.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1 which might be of > > interest. In some circles a distinction is made if CO2 injected. For > > tanks > > without CO2 a "rich" substrate (soil under gravel) can be used so that > > the > > nutrients are in the substrate and not the water column. If CO2 is > > used the > > rich substrate can be relaxed to something like Fluorite or Eco > > Complete and > > dosing nutrients into the water column like PMDD or EI. > > > > -Paul > > > > Thank you Mark. That paper was most useful. I am pasting in below some > > of the points from the paper that I will try, including removing the > > carbon filtration and discontinuing use of Aquasafe. Maybe Paul's > > response which I am awaiting will further elucidate important > > considerations. > > John > > > > (c) Enriched substrates are probably the best means of supplying > > phosphates to plants provided steps are taken to minimize the leakage > > of phosphate into the water column. Substrate fertilizers such as Pond > > Tabs should be buried deep in the substrate where their nutrients are > > preferentially available to plant roots. Substrate circulation should > > be minimized to prevent phosphate from leaching too rapidly into the > > water column. Avoid gravel cleaning and other substrate disturbances if > > at all possible. Eliminating substrate circulation completely would not > > be desirable (even if it were possible) because supplementary > > fertilizers are usually added to the water and must be transported to > > the roots somehow. > > > > Tap water is not recommended as a source of trace elements because it > > may be deficient in one or more elements, and rapid plant growth is > > likely to deplete the elements far more quickly than they can be > > replaced. > > > > Certain water treatment products (Aquasafe, NovAqua) should be > > avoided > > as they bind metals (including iron), making them unavailable to > > plants. They may also contain phosphate buffers. Simple dechlorinators > > or products such as Amquel are a better choice for treating tap water > > during water changes. > > > > Carbon filtration may remove necessary trace elements from the water. > > With regular water changes and good plant growth, carbon filtration is > > not necessary and should be omitted. > > > > (i) As a general principle, avoid adding fertilizers, water > > treatments, or any other products to one's aquarium unless the products > > completely disclose the concentration of each ingredient present. > > Otherwise, there is no way to knowing what effect (if any!) these > > products will have on the aquarium's inhabitants. > > > > > > > > > > On Mar 17, 2005, at 7:52 AM, Mark Pearlscott wrote: > > > >> John, > >> > >> Since this seems to be a hot topic, and my guess is that lots of > >> people don't know lots about it just yet, here is the original paper > >> on PMDD (http://www.cam.org/~tomlins/algae.html). This should give > >> you all the information you need to know to get your tank in balance > >> and all plants growing like weeds. If you need a supplier of > >> nutrients, try Eco-Elements (I'm pretty sure that is the name), a > >> hydroponic supply store up here in Shoreline (off 175th and I-5). > >> > >> My experience with green water is that the tank is "usually" deficient > >> in Nitrogen. So, going through the method of checking what is > >> missing, you might want to confirm this for your tank before adding > >> Nitrogen (which seems counter-intuitive). > >> > >> With that being said, you might just want something fast and easy, and > >> there is such a ting. Keep the micron filter or paper filter in you > >> canister, and add a "particulate clumper" to the tank (available at > >> most pet stores). With the clumper added, all the little pieces of > >> algae stick together, and then are able to be filtered out by the > >> filter. Just make sure to clean your filter after the algae has come > >> out of the water column. I had a friend use this, and it was gone in > >> one afternoon. > >> > >> Good luck, > >> > >> Mark Pearlscott > >> > >> > >> > >> John Ruhland wrote: > >> > >>> In the past few weeks, I've had an algae problem as well. Rather than > >>> coating any surfaces, it simply turns my water green. While it is a > >>> pretty color, I am unable to see anything more than about 4-5 inches > >>> from the glass. I've added two filters to the original filter. The > >>> pleated paper filter that came with the Magnum canister filter, and > >>> that I was told would turn water crystal clear, has not filtered out > >>> anything, so it must be only a few microns in size. Besides the > >>> magnum filter, I have a Magnum HOT, and a Marineland Emperor with > >>> Bio-wheel. At first I changed the water every day or two and added a > >>> bit of salt, thinking that would slow the growth of algae, but since > >>> that did not show much improvement, I decided to wait it out. Any > >>> recommendations would be helpful. Anita recommended getting tiny > >>> organisms that would eat the algae. > >>> > >>> Fortunately, the fish seem to be doing alright. > >>> Thank you, > >>> John > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> It is the tank where I put most of the plants I got at the plant sale > >>> as well. > >>> On Mar 16, 2005, at 2:56 PM, auntie.fran@netzero.net wrote: > >>> > >>>> > >>>> Thanks, Barbie...I'll see if I can find one. There's a synodontis > >>>> in the tank -- got him as a bottom feeder -- but I'm not certain > >>>> which type, but he sure doesn't eat algae! > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> Growing old is inevitable; growing up is optional. > >>>> > >>>> -- "Barbie" wrote: > >>>> Synodontis petricola eat hair algae also, and would be much more > >>>> suited to life with african cichlids, IMO. > >>>> > >>>> Barbie > >>>> > >>>> ----- Original Message ----- > >>>> From: auntie.fran@netzero.com > >>>> To: gsas-member@thekrib.com > >>>> Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2005 11:11 AM > >>>> Subject: Re: [GSAS-Member] Algae control > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> Will apple snails eat beard algae? And, will they survive in a > >>>> tank with blue daffodils and yellow labs? > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> Growing old is inevitable; growing up is optional. > >>>> > >>>> -- "A JACOBSON" wrote: > >>>> Shortly after the plant auction I was setting up a 55 gallon tank > >>>> and cannibalizing plants from my other tanks to fill it. Sure > >>>> enough, the tank I took the most plants out of suddenly was being > >>>> overwhelmed by several types of algae. I immediately crammed in a > >>>> bunch more plants and tossed in a baby SAE. The increased plant > >>>> load stopped the algae spread in its tracks, and now the baby SAE, > >>>> the 5 otos, the large SAE, and the snails I no longer bother, are > >>>> slowly cleaning the algae from the plants -- I'm also snipping off > >>>> leaves that are completely algae-covered, so they can concentrate > >>>> on only partially covered leaves. And it seems to be working. > >>>> > >>>> I bought a 30 gallon long tank a couple of months ago from someone > >>>> who had let it go downhill. It had two beautiful pieces of bogwood > >>>> covered with a dwarf java fern, but every leaf was black from > >>>> algae. Same with the anubias and the sag, and the glass of the > >>>> aquarium itself. Did the same thing. Cut off the worst leaves > >>>> (and every time I go in there I trim a little more, giving the new > >>>> leaves a chance to grow), tossed in 2 SAE, and added a field of > >>>> crypts that I bought for that purpose at the plant auction. It's > >>>> not quite there yet (crypts are still looking pretty forlorn), but > >>>> it is SOOO much better. A few apple snails are surviving, despite > >>>> the loaches (maybe there are too big for the loaches?) and they are > >>>> going a yoeman's job of clearing off the remaining black on the > >>>> leaves. > >>>> > >>>> Anita > >>>> ----- Original Message ----- > >>>> From: welenofsky@comcast.net > >>>> To: GSAS Member > >>>> Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2005 6:56 AM > >>>> Subject: [GSAS-Member] Algae control > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> Since the plant auction, I've had all different types of algae > >>>> plaguing my tank. What kinds of fish besides SAE will help control > >>>> it? Where can I get these fish locally? Does anyone have any SAE or > >>>> other algae-eating fish they don't want anymore? I have discus in > >>>> the tank. I may just take it down and bleach the plants and/or > >>>> strip the leaves off. > >>>> > >>>> Susan > >>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>> GSAS-Member mailing list > >>>> GSAS-Member@thekrib.com > >>>> http://lists.thekrib.com/mailman/listinfo/gsas-member> >>>> > >>>> lists.thekrib.com/mailman/listinfo/gsas-member> > >>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>> GSAS-Member mailing list > >>>> GSAS-Member@thekrib.com > >>>> http://lists.thekrib.com/mailman/listinfo/gsas-member > >>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>> GSAS-Member mailing list > >>>> GSAS-Member@thekrib.com > >>>> http://lists.thekrib.com/mailman/listinfo/gsas-member > >>>> > >>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>> GSAS-Member mailing list > >>>> GSAS-Member@thekrib.com > >>>> http://lists.thekrib.com/mailman/listinfo/gsas-member > >>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>> GSAS-Member mailing list > >>>> GSAS-Member@thekrib.com > >>>> http://lists.thekrib.com/mailman/listinfo/gsas-member > >>>> > >>>> > >>> > >>> Dr. John F. Ruhland > >>> The Natural Health Medical Clinic > >>> 4002 - 25th Avenue S, Seattle, WA 98108 > >>> 206-723-4891 > >>> www.drruhland.com > >>> > >>> _______________________________________________ > >>> GSAS-Member mailing list > >>> GSAS-Member@thekrib.com > >>> http://lists.thekrib.com/mailman/listinfo/gsas-member > >>> > >>> > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> GSAS-Member mailing list > >> GSAS-Member@thekrib.com > >> http://lists.thekrib.com/mailman/listinfo/gsas-member > >> > >> > > > > > > > > Dr. John F. Ruhland > > The Natural Health Medical Clinic > > 4002 - 25th Avenue S, Seattle, WA 98108 > > 206-723-4891 > > www.drruhland.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > GSAS-Member mailing list > > GSAS-Member@thekrib.com > > http://lists.thekrib.com/mailman/listinfo/gsas-member > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > GSAS-Member mailing list > > GSAS-Member@thekrib.com > > http://lists.thekrib.com/mailman/listinfo/gsas-member > > > > > > > > Dr. John F. Ruhland > The Natural Health Medical Clinic > 4002 - 25th Avenue S, Seattle, WA 98108 > 206-723-4891 > www.drruhland.com > > _______________________________________________ > GSAS-Member mailing list > GSAS-Member@thekrib.com > http://lists.thekrib.com/mailman/listinfo/gsas-member _______________________________________________ GSAS-Member mailing list GSAS-Member@thekrib.com http://lists.thekrib.com/mailman/listinfo/gsas-member