Re: [GSAS-Member] Pond Algae is a hairy problem

["Betty Goetz" <haika@drizzle.com>]

Cliff may have more suggestions, but I've been maintaining 3 ~33 gal above
ground mini-ponds for almost 10 years and floating plants alone don't seem
to do the job. The submerged 'oxygenating' plants (like parrotfeather)
have made a big difference for me. These ponds have roughly 50%
parrotfeather in them. One is all waterlily Chromatella. All have no algae
problem and nice clear water. Sometimes I have fish in these...sometimes
not. I started a 100g stock tank last summer, and I've struggled with
green water. The surface has often been virtually covered 100% with
floaters (azolla, duckweed, etc), but I don't have a good stand of
submerged parrotfeather in that pond yet. I also had several water lily
pots. While setting up my new 150g stock tank for Trish's sarasa comets, I
tried putting cement blocks in to make 'staging' areas for potted
parrotfeather cuttings and I think that's the route I need to take with
the 100g tank. It's just a matter of getting enough plant material to DO
this! The noxious weed laws affect our choices here, for better or worse
(weak grin).

Locally, I've gotten plants at Moorehaven in Lynnwood and Flower World
(Snohomish) but those are close to me. I'm sure there are plenty of other
options! I've mailordered from a number of sources as well.

Betty Goetz

> Thanks Cliff and Betty,
>
> I agree plants would definitely be a good direction.  Right now the pond
> is about 1/3 covered with Water Hyacinth, water lettuce, lillies, frog
> bit and duckweed. There are numerous other plants in the pond as well,
> but, not ones that cover the surface.  The pond gets sun all day, full
> sun.  I agree chemicals are not desirable either.  Do either of you know
> where one might get inexpensive plants for the pond?  I think the
> surface needs to be more covered than it is.
>
> Clay
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clifford Miller [mailto:clifford@clevergeek.com]
> Sent: Friday, July 11, 2008 12:27 PM
> To: Greater Seattle Aquarium Society member chat
> Subject: Re: [GSAS-Member] Pond Algae is a hairy problem
>
>
> My in-laws have a rather large (acre+) pond on their property, and have
> dealt with similar issues as long as they've owned the lot.
>
> You can attack the algae (which I think is what the straw does by
> hosting bacteria incompatible with it) with additives, or short it of
> resources (usually with lots and lots of vascular plants).
>
> What kind of plants are currently in the pond, how full of plants is it,
> and is it in full sun?  If it's getting a lot of light, you'll likely to
> 'enjoy' the algae fight almost every year.  I'd try to find someone with
> some nice wild water lilies.  The cultivated kinds are probably showier,
> but they tend to go for $20+ each...the wild ones in my experience have
> been much hardier and are still plenty pretty--  I knew several people
> on the east coast that had to compost heaps of them every year just to
> keep some fishing area open in their farm ponds.  If it's getting more
> than a few hours of direct sun every day I'd probably try to cover
> 25-50% of the surface...
>
> In a very small pond (like my 200gal garden pond), a similar effect can
> be obtained with frogbit (which is what I use), water lettuce, water
> hyacinth (also pretty when blooming and a great nutrient sponge),
> etc...but you have to skim those off for compost much more often than
> the lilies.  Once some of the light has been blocked out, adding more
> oxygenating plants to the water column to help drain the nutrients and
> should slow the algae down quite a bit.  I prefer "highly invasive"
> since I don't have the greenest thumb...parrots feather, elodea,
> hornwort, etc...but once added to a pond of any significant size,
> they're eternal...and of course should be kept well away from other
> local water sources.
>
> The other route is to buy lots of chemicals every year and spending the
> time to make the pond look more like a pool (which is probably the
> desired result in many yards and gardens).  Your local nursery might
> prefer this option, but I find the time, money, and energy really isn't
> as well spent as finding more ways to enjoy the algae.  =)  It's
> surprising how the balance of power will often shift in a few weeks of
> neglect, and then the plants will have the upper hand again...
>
> Cliff
>
>>
>>  Sooo, I have a question for those of you keeping ponds.  Please read
>> the issue below and the response from Natural Solutions.  I need to
>> better understand what can be done to eliminate the algae growth in a
>> pond.  It is a long hair like algae and it covers everything...the
>> bottom of the pond, the plants, the waterfall....all of it.  The
>> solution last year was to put this bag of barley hay in the water and
>> it cleared the pond of the algae almost immediately, within a week.
>> This year, no such luck.  So, the letter below was written and the
>> answer below was given.  Now the question is, What do Microbe-Lift PL
>> and Bio-Pond Tabs do and will they actually work on the algae?  Any
>> help on this would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Clay
>>
>>  Dear Natural Solutions,
>> I purchased your product last year and had outstanding results. almost
>
>> immediately.  This year, I have used the product you sent me and had
>> no results.  I placed a bag of the barley in 4 weeks ago and added
>> another a week ago with no change.
>> My pond has not changed in any way.  Plants and fish count remain the
>> same.
>> I was hoping you could offer some advise as to what I may do in order
>> to clear the algae from my pond...  Have others been experiencing the
>> same results?
>>
>> Dear Customer
>> Sorry for the slow response. The warm season started a little earlier
>> this year in most places. This may contribute to more algae being
>> present. If you are not using some kind of bacteria in you pond you
>> might want to do that, like Microbe-Lift PL or Bio-Pond Tabs. If you
>> don't have any aeration in your pond it would help if you did. It
>> usually takes about 3 weeks for the barley to start breaking down and
>> working. I hope this helps in some way..
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>
>
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