Re: [GSAS-Member] Aponogetons

[Shango Los <shango@shangolos.com>]

Kat,

This is an incredible synopsis of some this species' attributes.  I am very 
impressed.  Thank you for sharing in such detail. This is totally interesting 
and clean information.  I have never seen info on Apo's laid out so clearly. 

Have you ever been able to propagate it?

The geek in me is kinda jumping up and down.

Thanks

Shango


On Dec 9, 2009, at 10:48 PM, Kat Hentsch wrote:

> 
> Hey folks, I've been in IL for a week for my grandpa's funeral and catching 
> up with emails now...thought I'd share some of my experience with 
> Aponogetons, sparked by discussion of Colin's Mad. Lace search:
> These are by far my favorite specimen plants in a tank.  No matter the 
> species they draw attention to themselves.  To date I have kept ulvaceous, 
> undulatus, crispus, madagascariensis, boivinianus, capuroni and natans; 
> currently have boivinianus, natans, ulvaceous, and mad. lace.
> 1. Most of my plants were acquired as plants, not just bulbs.  I have a hard 
> time getting the bulbs to leaf out without rotting.  I try to choose a plant 
> with a hefty root structure.  Forget how the foliage looks: it'll die upon 
> switching tanks anyway.
> 2. I have learned the hard way to soak the bulbs in a methylene blue solution 
> (same concentration as for egg fungus) for 10 minutes before placing in my 
> tank.  This has drastically cut down on the tuber rot.
> 3. Save yourself the cleanup and tear back the outer leaves like peeling a 
> cabbage.  These are the oldest and will die quickly.  The only leaves I leave 
> are those just recently opened or starting to sprout.  Those generally 
> survive.
> 4. The bulb will rot quickly if the plant sucks too much energy from the bulb 
> to produce foliage.  This is where the hefty root structure comes in handy.  
> Slap a Flourish tab or Jobes stick under the bulb and the roots will draw 
> nutrients from it rather than depleting the bulb.  I don't recommend keeping 
> the bulb in soil unless you are using mesh or peat pots, as others do not 
> allow adequate flow around the roots.  I've had the best results in plain pea 
> gravel or a coco pot filled with coco fiber, fluorite, and montmorrilonite 
> clay.  The coco fiber wreaks havok on filters though, so ye be warned.
> 5. Your plant will likely shoot up like a weed.  It'll probably flower.  Then 
> you'll notice all these little aphids on the water surface.  i have no idea 
> how they get there, but it always happens.  This phenomenal growth will 
> likely last 6-8 months, and suddenly, your plant starts to fade.  OH NO!
> 6.  Snatch that sucker out of your tank, peel every last leaf off, and let it 
> dry out.  Once dry, stick it in a dark, cool place like a fridge.  I left one 
> on my bathroom sink for weeks before I realized it was hiding behind the soap 
> dispenser.  Pop it back into the tank 3-4 weeks later and VOILA!  New happy 
> growth.  This rest period seems to be the key to success.  I've seen it 
> suggested to keep them in damp sand, but I tried this several times and just 
> had the bulb rot every time.
> Hope this gives someone the insight they need to grow a beautiful specimen! 
> Kat Hentsch 
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