S. Hieber wrote:
A No-Shok needle valve follows the solenoid. Is this sufficient as a metering valve?I'm not sure that I'm understanding you correctly. It sounds like you are saying that your regulator won't shut off the gas supply. IT's not meant to do that; only to drop down the pressure from the CO2 to something useful. In, fact as you get way down low on the output pressure side, the rgulator will be less stable and less accurate. That's normal unless the regulator is speically made to work at very very low pressures, like just 1 or 2 or 3 psi. However, Victors are generally expensive, high quality regulators.
The Valve on the CO2 tank should be the one used to shut off the CO2 completely.
Now if the problem is that the regulator won't regulate, won't maintain an even low side pressure down in the range you want, that's a diff issue. Whther the CO2 tank valve is opened jsut a tad or all the way, it presents the smae pressure tothe regulator. If open jsut a tad, then the tank won't be able to supply a very high volume of gas, but for aquaticf gardening purposes, only a very tiny volume of CO2 is desired.
The regulator won't control the amount of gas flow; it only controls the pressure on the output side. At what pressure it holds the output (or low pressure side) depends on how far in or out the knob or adjustment screw is turned.
To control the amount of flow, you use a metering valve
after the regulator. You have one of these in your setup?
It had a needle valve on it. The old setup was one of those locked-together pieces with a Milwaukee regulator to solenoid to needle valve into bubble-counter, the sort of setup commonly sold on aquarium websites. When the overfilled CO2 tank blew out that regulator, and then the overflow wouldn't reseat, after many adventures, I got the Victor. THe Milwaukee setup took some tweaking to get the flow where I wanted it, but once I got it set up it was fine. I ust figure it'd be nice to have a regulator that doesn't die when the overflow valve gets hit.The order is:
CO2 tank with valve -- the valve is used to turn on or off the supply of CO2 to the system, like when you are changing tanks for a refill, you want to shut off the CO2.
Regulator -- drops the pressure from the CO2 tank (usually about 650 to 850 psi) to a usable pressure (somewhere around 5-30 psi). If the regulator has two gauges on it, then one shows the pressure on the high side of the regualtor (i.e., the pressure from the CO2 tank) and the other the pressure on the low or output side of the regulator.
Metering valve -- controls the amount of CO2 that passes through the the system in a given period -- i.e., allows for a high or low volume of gas flow.
Solenoid (if you use one) -- an electrical low-pressure valve that shuts off/turns on the low side flow -- usually connected to a timer or a pH controller.
Is your problem that you can't control the amount of CO2 that's going into your aquarium? If so then it's the metering valve that's probably at fault.
If you use the Milwaukee regulator, bubble counter,
solenoid combo, I believe that combo doesn't have a
metering valve so you need to add one to complete the
system.
Trying to run without a metering valve is difficult becuase regulators tend not to be very stable at very low pressures and trying to limit the CO2 flow by output pressure alone generally requires very low pressure or an injector that present high resistance to gas flow. The eheim diffusers are pretty high resistance but you'll want a metering valve with one of those setups anyway to prevent rapid tank dumps.
sh --- Heather J Gladney <hgladney@comcast.net> wrote:
Now that I'm deep in the regulator replacement, with the
welding gas supply shop and the Victor Company and the Airgas
distributor all closed for a holiay weekend, I'm finding that the regulator
won't shut off completely when I've barely cracked open the main tank
valve.
I can't turn on the main tank valve any further without
chilling the regulator and running amazing amounts of gas out.
I think I've got a bad regulator, although it's brand
new.
It's a Victor Medalist SR5B-320 0780-2544 for carbon
dioxide, to be precise.
The last one got killed by an overfilled CO2 tank. That
blew the overpressure valve on the Milwaukee regulator/needle
valve/bubble counter setup, and the regulator couldn't be fixed from
that.
My family is pushing me back toward yeast bottles, and
this isn't helping.
Any suggestions from any experts in the house?
Heather J Gladney wrote:
I ran into this problem myself when first dealing witha weird import
CO2 pressure regulator, and I'm trying not to do itagain this weekend
will leave the pHreplacing it!
Kirsten Klinghammer wrote:
I was kind of thinking that, but I wasn't sure. I
anything else foralone
for now - ixnay on further water changes, CO2 use, or
Troy.today. I appreciate you sharing your experience,
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