Thank you, Scott and Cheryl, for your comments and suggestions. It's nice to know that I'll be able to get more than one plantlet from each node. I can see what you mean, Scott, about there being several plantlets in each spot, which makes sense since there were several flowers at each node before the plantlets developed. I will also be very careful about temperature. I must admit that it seems unseasonably cool here now, only in the mid-90's or so compared with the 105's we had a few weeks ago (or the 110+'s we've had in previous years), but just because it feels cool to me, doesn't mean I won't cook my plants. When I move the plants over I will initially just move a couple to see how they do, so that I don't risk all of them. As I mentioned, since I'm moving them outside I will keep them shaded both from above and from the side (to block reflected light) so I'm hoping they won't get sunburned. I may tuck my spares into aquarium nooks and crannies too for the moment, as I hadn't thought of "parking" them in an aquarium until they were ready to go as opposed to actually planting them somewhere. I'm a member of both an aquarium club (the Sacramento Aquarium Society) and a wonderful plant club (the San Francisco Bay Area Aquatic Plant Society - thank you again Mike Szilard for introducing me to them!), and I'd like to share my small bounty with them in thanks for all they've each done for me. Well, just looked at the time... I must be off to work. Have a good day, all. Kirsten **** Kirsten Klinghammer Rescue, California, USA -----Original Message----- From: aga-member-bounces@thekrib.com [mailto:aga-member-bounces@thekrib.com] On Behalf Of S. Hieber Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 4:37 AM To: Aquatic Gardeners Association Member Chat Subject: Re: [AGA-Member] Echinodorus Ozelot Propogation? You have several options. You can allow the plantlets to grow in place until they are a few inches in length and hae some roots developed, then separate them from the stalk. I find the easiest way to do this is to pry the plantlet at the base -- they then break away rather cleanly. Usually there will be several plantlets at eachnode on the stalk. The separated plantlet can then be treated like any other juvenile ozelot. You can leave the plantlet floating or plant it in substrate so long as there is adequate nutrition and light, it will continue to grow. Of course, it can more easily obtain CO2 if is floating than if it is submerged in an aquarium without added CO2. You can remove the staqlk from the parent plant. If the stalk is outermost on the base, you can probably pry it away as you would an out leaf. (You can also cut with a small sharp blade but they pry away easily.) If it is not outermost, and you do not wish to prune away the outer leaves, you can cut the stalk as close to the base as possible. If the parent plant is robust, the deterioration of the attached stalk remanant should not harm the plant. You will find the stalk to be much tougher and "woodier" than an ordinary petiole. You can lay the stalk along substrate, cover the roots, or cut the stalk into several pieces and do the same with each of those -- even cut near each node to separate each node form the others. Some folks like to cut about an inch away from each node because the sort piece of stak on either side of the node can help hold the node in place in the substrate -- the roots sometimes being too short to hold the plantlet(s) in place.Unless the plantlets are very small, I prefer to separate them from the stalk, lest I end up planting several plantlets (at one node) in one place. If you submerge them, be sure that the are not in shade. With an abundance of the little gems, I sometimes place a few midlevel in the aquarium, wedged gently in place in the crooks of driftwood. This I do purely for the appearance, once the plant grows closer to full size, I will move it to the substrate, so that it has more room to reach full height. RE temperature, these swords do well in a wide range of temps and reportedly will endure a range of about 60F to 90F. I have never tried to grow them at the extremes. However, if I expected high temps, and I was trying to grow them out, I would probably leave them floating in tank that had enough cover to keep the leaves facing the air mosit. At higher temps there will be less CO2 in the water so floating will help provide them CO2. I would expect things to get dicey if the temp went past 90F. I you are keeping them outside in, say a bucket, you might try setting teh bucket about halfway into the ground to moderate the water temperature. Hope that is some help. Good luck, good fun, Scott H. --- Kirsten Klinghammer <klingham@pacbell.net> wrote: > I have a beautiful Echinodorus Ozelot which has been > putting out flower > stalks. Although the plant is in a covered 38 gallon > aquarium and couldn't > grow much above the water surface, I thought I would see > what would happen > if I left the flower stalks be. Much to my > [inexperienced] surprise, small > plantlets have been growing from the flowering nodes! > They look lovely in > the tank, but it's getting to the point that they need to > be moved out so > that other plants will get enough light. > > > > How can I best support the growth of the Ozelot > plantlets? My thought at > the moment is to cut off the flower stalk below the last > plantlet (maybe > it'll keep producing more?), then move the plantlets into > a paludarium for > mostly-emersed growth. The paludarium isn't set up yet, > but it will be > outside on the deck under shade, and I expect a > temperature range in the > tank to go between 68-100 degrees Fahrenheit (likely > daily) during the time > I plan to have it set up this summer (here in sunny, hot, > Northern > California). I'm hoping the temperature range will be > okay, as I don't have > any other good place to put these plants. > > > > When I move the plants, should I plant them in soil, peat > pots, fluorite, > gravel, sand, or some version of rock wool and plastic > mesh pots? I have > friends who are interested in some of these young Ozelots > once they get > established, so I want to be sure that they will > transplant easily. Also, > should I let them grow connected for a while longer after > moving them (there > are four or so plantlets per stalk), or should I cut them > apart when I move > them? > > > > I've been trying to look through the archives, my planted > aquaria books and > magazines, and on the internet to find more information, > but I haven't found > what I'm looking for. I would welcome your comments. > > > > Thank you! > > > > Kirsten > > > > > > **** > > Kirsten Klinghammer > > Rescue, California, USA > > > > _______________________________________________ > AGA-Member mailing list > AGA-Member@thekrib.com > http://lists.thekrib.com/mailman/listinfo/aga-member > * * * * * * * * * * * The deadline for submissions to the AGA Aquascaping contest is September 15. What are you waiting for? Entries are only $5 and for that half a sawbuck you can have your AGA entry automatically entered in the ADA (Aqua Design Amano) contest for free, a savings in time and shipping costs! Share the fun; show your work. The AGA's 6th Annual International Aquascaping Contest is open. Check it out at: http://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org _______________________________________________ AGA-Member mailing list AGA-Member@thekrib.com http://lists.thekrib.com/mailman/listinfo/aga-member _______________________________________________ AGA-Member mailing list AGA-Member@thekrib.com http://lists.thekrib.com/mailman/listinfo/aga-member