[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index][Index by Month]
Re: [AGA-Member] Low-light tanks & CO2
- To: Aquatic Gardeners Association Member Chat <firstname.lastname@example.org>
- Subject: Re: [AGA-Member] Low-light tanks & CO2
- From: Heather J Gladney <email@example.com>
- Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 19:10:06 -0700
- User-agent: Mozilla Thunderbird 1.0.2 (Windows/20050317)
S. Hieber wrote:
At the risk of hijacking the thread here--file it in a new category?
--- Heather J Gladney <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:
I'd like to hear more about how to keep them, too.
Currently got BGA in
my tank (bleahh!) and yet fairly high N going, so I
suspect that I let
my tank's TDS get too high, not enough water changes, for
How high is high? Also, what are the phoshpate levels?
I've been meaning to ask about this for awhile anyway...with your
I think this one's called, "not enough water changes", in spite of the
fact there's folks out there who insist you don't have to.
Last testing batch I did:
pH 6.7 (down from 7.0 over a month, using solenoid on pressurized CO2
KH 5 (up from 3 over the month)
GH 13- 16 (down from 15-18--I think this was Mg, it shot way up when I
added Epsom + Seachem Equilibrium.)
nitrate about .3 mg/l steadily,
nitrate about 50-60 mg/l (this is down from prior 100 mg/l--when I added
no ferts, it ran about 12 mg/l routinely).
phosphate 1.5 - 2.0 mg/l, probably closer to 2 (up from prior .5 - .67 mg/l)
iron test showed over 1 mg/l, more like 2 mg/l, which I understand is high.
I found tap was running GH 4-5, generally around pH 7.0 -7.2.
Before this test, as I saw the BGA, I had been adding some extra
nitrates + traces, and stopped when I got these results.
In the last month, at water changes I just added some dolomitic lime to
tapwater to maintain CO2/hardness, and stopped adding anything in the
last couple of weeks.
Also had to drop the light levels, as one of my fixtures ground-faulted
So now I'm running two 92 watt CF 36" bulbs, on estimated 78 gallons
actual (at a guess, as it's both deep and a corner-diamond shape, and I
didn't measure on first fill, dummy me--90 gallons nominal) so that puts
it in that awkward 2 watts per gallon range, I find the high-light
plants don't like it.
I'm debating about how to punch more light down into the 24" depth with
some sort of fixture in less than 24" width.
As always, thanks for everybody's help!!
If the nitrates are high but the phosphates are remaining
at about 1 ppm, continue dosing the phosphates but let lay
off on the nitrates until the level gets down closer to
about 10 ppm. Each 50% water change should cut the nitrate
level in half. It might then build or decline between water
changes depending on feeding and dosing.
Some have said bga occurs due to nitrate limitation. I've
seen it when the nitrates are very high. This could be due
to a combination of related factors, such as not enough
other nutrients for the plants to be able to use up the
Anyhow, try to aim for the targets and see if things don't
clear up that way. OF course, physcally remove what bga or
algae you can before a water change is always a big help.
good luck, good fun,
* * * * * * * * * * *
Coming Soon in November, the winners and all the other beautiful entries in the 6th Annual International Aquascaping Contest. Every continent is represented -- except Antarctica. Maybe next year Antarctica, too ;-)
AGA-Member mailing list
AGA-Member mailing list