"Incidentally, the article in PAM is exactly the one I was going to publish in the next issue of TAG. I suppose I can't very well publish it now, right? I'm pissed." Hmm, within the context of the larger message, this hardly seems like asking for feedback. If such a message were directed to me, I would interpret it as "feedback optional". - Erik -- Erik Olson erik at thekrib dot com ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 12:19:00 -0500 From: Mary McCaw <marymccaw@mediaone.net> To: Neil Frank <nfrank@mindspring.com> Cc: Karen Randall <krandall@world.std.com>, David Lass <davidlass@villasunscape.com>, Erik Olson <erik@thekrib.com>, Dorothy Reimer <dreimer@wwdc.com> Subject: Fw: Elementary Crypt Culture; PAM article Here is a copy of the message I sent you. Mary ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mary McCaw" <marymccaw@mediaone.net> To: "Neil Frank" <nfrank@mindspring.com> Sent: Friday, March 02, 2001 1:02 AM Subject: Re: Elementary Crypt Culture; PAM article > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Neil Frank" <nfrank@mindspring.com> > To: <marymccaw@mediaone.net> > Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 6:17 PM > Subject: Elementary Crypt Culture > > > > Mary, > > This is a very nice article posted on the crypts list (in case you are not > a member, I am forwarding it). I think it would be an excellent one to go > into TAG. You might want to contact the submitter ( Ted Held) to see if he > > would like to have it in TAG. You might even first check with Jack to see > if Ted is a member. > > > Neil > > Thanks for the suggestion, but Karen already called my attention to the > article and forwarded it to me. I have asked and obtained Ted's permission > to reprint it in TAG. > > Incidentally, the article in PAM is exactly the one I was going to publish > in the next issue of TAG. I suppose I can't very well publish it now, > right? I'm pissed. > > Mary > > > > > > >Delivered-To: crypts-outgoing@ns1.vrx.net > > >Delivered-To: crypts@vrx.net > > >Subject: Elementary Crypt Culture > > >To: crypts@aquaria.net > > >From: Ted.Held@hstna.com > > >Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 10:20:48 -0500 > > >X-MIMETrack: Serialize by Router on HNA_CIN_SMTP/Servers/Henkel > > Americas(Release 5.0.6a > > > |January 17, 2001) at 03/01/2001 10:21:22 AM, > > > Itemize by SMTP Server on hnarelay/Servers/Henkel Americas(Release > 5.0.6a > > |January > > > 17, 2001) at 03/01/2001 10:22:53 AM, > > > Serialize by Router on hnarelay/Servers/Henkel Americas(Release 5.0.6a > > |January > > > 17, 2001) at 03/01/2001 10:22:54 AM, > > > Serialize complete at 03/01/2001 10:22:54 AM > > >Sender: owner-crypts@aquaria.net > > >Reply-To: crypts@aquaria.net > > > > > >One of the tragedies of Crypt culture is the disappointed newcomer. > Plants > > >are purchased. Considerable effort is exerted planting the specimens. > > >Visions of a natural, thriving planted aquarium are dashed by the plants > > >melting into nothing by the end of the month. Money is wasted. Time is > > >wasted. A potential enthusiast decides that plastic plants look pretty > good > > >after all. > > > > > >Here is some advice, which may help you over the initial period. While > > >Crypt culture is not an exact science, these remarks will present > cultural > > >conditions that should enable your new plants to survive and grow. I am > > >sure there are better systems. But this one will get you over the hump. > > > > > >1. Be aware that Crypts are actually fragile plants. This weakness is > > >displayed in the susceptibility of Crypt leaves to melt, or decay > quickly, > > >sometimes drastically. This is normally a response to change. Different > > >lighting conditions, different temperature conditions, different water > > >chemistry, can each cause the plant to give up on its current leaves and > > >retreat to the roots. Keep your mind focused on the roots. Crypts regard > > >leaves as disposable. > > > > > >2. Crypts need light. They are green plants. Statements in some aquarium > > >literature that Crypts like to live in the dark are wrong. Crypts will > need > > >incandescent light, natural sunlight, or warm (red), grow-light type > > >fluorescent lighting. Use about 40 watts incandescent for every ten > gallon > > >aquarium size, or about half that for fluorescent. Plants will do best > when > > >illuminated for 12 to 16 hours per day. > > > > > >3. Crypts need a moderate amount of nutrients. In the initial planting, > > >nutrient will come from the substrate. Crypts will like nutrient supplied > > >by a little garden soil in the substrate or by adding a nutrient tab, > such > > >as a Jobe's stake, when planting. Don't go overboard. > > > > > >4. Most people will want to raise the plants underwater in their normal > > >aquarium. You can set up the whole tank as a plant tank. But this will > > >involve a serious commitment and is rather complex and maybe messy. It > will > > >be better for the beginner to plant the new Crypts in a flower pot or > other > > >container and place the pot into the tank. This is easy and minimally > > >disruptive. Use a container that holds between a pint and a quart (0.5 to > > >1.0 liter) of substrate. > > > > > >5. Substrate type is something that is the subject of endless > > >experimentation. Here are two suggestions. First, take a terra cotta > flower > > >pot (clean). Add some (about and inch, 2.5 cm) pea gravel to the bottom. > > >Add a layer of fibrous peat moss (the kind that still looks like a moss > > >plant), leaving enough room in the pot to add a final layer of pea gravel > > >at the top. Add a small pocket of garden soil or a nutrient tab, and > plant > > >the Crypt as you would any plant. Add the final layer of pea gravel and > > >adjust the crown of the Crypt root to be even with the top of the > > >substrate. Submerge the pot in the aquarium, situated under direct light. > > >Make sure your pot is quite heavy with this method, to avoid the > > >possibility of tipping. > > > > > >The second method is similar. Fill the pot about half way with aquarium > > >gravel. Add a pocket of garden soil or nutrient tab. Plant the Crypt and > > >fill the remainder of the pot with gravel. Situate the plant in the > > >aquarium as before. In either case, insert some kind of permanent ID tag > > >into the container stating the date of potting and the identity of the > > >plant (as much as can be stated). > > > > > >6. Wait. As mentioned, do not be unduly alarmed if you lose the existing > > >leaves. New ones should begin to emerge within a week or two. Crypt > leaves > > >grow slowly. It may take two weeks for an emerging leaf to mature. A > > >typical Crypt in aquarium culture will get a new leaf about once every > > >three to four weeks. By the time you get three new leaves, many Crypts > will > > >have begun to produce runners (usually below the substrate surface) and > > >little plantlets will be seen. As long as the roots are not mushy there > is > > >hope. > > > > > >7. Plan to repot your plants after about a year or two years. The plants > > >will respond well and you will should find that your stock can be > increased > > >by division. Transplantation is much less traumatic than the plant's > > >experience being transported and sold in the commercial market. So leaf > > >loss is less or absent. > > > > > >8. Crypts like to grow in rather shallow situations. Submerge your plants > > >so that no more than about 10 inches (25 cm) of water column is above the > > >crown. Many people grow Crypts emerse, that is, where the leaves emerge > > >from the water and grow in air. Emerse growth avoids risks of algae. You > > >are much more likely to get a bloom with emerse growth. > > > > > >9. In a stable aquarium with fish, feeding for Crypts will likely be > > >through foliar absorption. It is normally not necessary to feed your > Crypts > > >if the initial substrate has been built correctly and timely replanting > is > > >undertaken. Excess feeding will probably result in algae. If your fish > are > > >doing well, your Crypts will probably do well, too. > > > > > >10. If you have been successful on the level of culture represented here, > > >you are accomplished enough to begin adjusting your techniques. You will > > >find that certain Crypts have specific requirements. Actually, there are > > >species that absolutely will not grow if cultured as I have outlined. But > > >those are rare - probably because they need the special growing > conditions. > > >But what has been described will work for most Crypt species you are > likely > > >to find in normal commerce. > > > > > > > > >I hope these suggestions are helpful and do not provoke controversy. I > > >would solicit others to make additional comments or outline other > schemes. > > >I have done the Crypt thing for a long time now and lose plants only > > >rarely. I throw out much material every month since space is always > > >limited. The point is that the methods described will work in a normal > > >hobbyist's set up. You do not need a greenhouse or fancy equipment just > to > > >get your plants to grow and reproduce. > > > > > > > > >__________________________________________________________ > > >To unsubscribe, see http://lists.aquaria.net/plants/crypts > > > > ------------------ To unsubscribe from this list, e-mail majordomo@thekrib.com with "unsubscribe aga-sc" in the body of the message. Old messages are available at http://lists.thekrib.com/aga-sc When asked, log in as username is "aga-sc", and password "showy".