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Fw: Elementary Crypt Culture; PAM article (fwd)



"Incidentally, the article in PAM is exactly the one I was going to
publish in the next issue of TAG.  I suppose I can't very well publish it
now, right?  I'm pissed."

Hmm, within the context of the larger message, this hardly seems like
asking for feedback. If such a message were directed to me, I would
interpret it as "feedback optional".

  - Erik


-- 
Erik Olson
erik at thekrib dot com

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 12:19:00 -0500
From: Mary McCaw <marymccaw@mediaone.net>
To: Neil Frank <nfrank@mindspring.com>
Cc: Karen Randall <krandall@world.std.com>,
     David Lass <davidlass@villasunscape.com>, Erik Olson <erik@thekrib.com>,
     Dorothy Reimer <dreimer@wwdc.com>
Subject: Fw: Elementary Crypt Culture; PAM article

Here is a copy of the message I sent you.

Mary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mary McCaw" <marymccaw@mediaone.net>
To: "Neil Frank" <nfrank@mindspring.com>
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2001 1:02 AM
Subject: Re: Elementary Crypt Culture; PAM article


>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Neil Frank" <nfrank@mindspring.com>
> To: <marymccaw@mediaone.net>
> Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 6:17 PM
> Subject: Elementary Crypt Culture
>
>
> > Mary,
> > This is a very nice article posted on the crypts list (in case you are
not
> a member, I am forwarding it). I think it would be an excellent one to go
> into TAG. You might want to contact the submitter ( Ted Held) to see if he
> > would like to have it in TAG. You might even first check with Jack to
see
> if Ted is a member.
>
> > Neil
>
> Thanks for the suggestion, but Karen already called my attention to the
> article and forwarded it to me.  I have asked and obtained Ted's
permission
> to reprint it in TAG.
>
> Incidentally, the article in PAM is exactly the one I was going to publish
> in the next issue of TAG.  I suppose I can't very well publish it now,
> right?  I'm pissed.
>
> Mary
>
>
> >
> > >Delivered-To: crypts-outgoing@ns1.vrx.net
> > >Delivered-To: crypts@vrx.net
> > >Subject: Elementary Crypt Culture
> > >To: crypts@aquaria.net
> > >From: Ted.Held@hstna.com
> > >Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 10:20:48 -0500
> > >X-MIMETrack: Serialize by Router on HNA_CIN_SMTP/Servers/Henkel
> > Americas(Release 5.0.6a
> > > |January 17, 2001) at 03/01/2001 10:21:22 AM,
> > > Itemize by SMTP Server on hnarelay/Servers/Henkel Americas(Release
> 5.0.6a
> > |January
> > > 17, 2001) at 03/01/2001 10:22:53 AM,
> > > Serialize by Router on hnarelay/Servers/Henkel Americas(Release 5.0.6a
> > |January
> > > 17, 2001) at 03/01/2001 10:22:54 AM,
> > > Serialize complete at 03/01/2001 10:22:54 AM
> > >Sender: owner-crypts@aquaria.net
> > >Reply-To: crypts@aquaria.net
> > >
> > >One of the tragedies of Crypt culture is the disappointed newcomer.
> Plants
> > >are purchased. Considerable effort is exerted planting the specimens.
> > >Visions of a natural, thriving planted aquarium are dashed by the
plants
> > >melting into nothing by the end of the month. Money is wasted. Time is
> > >wasted. A potential enthusiast decides that plastic plants look pretty
> good
> > >after all.
> > >
> > >Here is some advice, which may help you over the initial period. While
> > >Crypt culture is not an exact science, these remarks will present
> cultural
> > >conditions that should enable your new plants to survive and grow. I am
> > >sure there are better systems. But this one will get you over the hump.
> > >
> > >1. Be aware that Crypts are actually fragile plants. This weakness is
> > >displayed in the susceptibility of Crypt leaves to melt, or decay
> quickly,
> > >sometimes drastically. This is normally a response to change. Different
> > >lighting conditions, different temperature conditions, different water
> > >chemistry, can each cause the plant to give up on its current leaves
and
> > >retreat to the roots. Keep your mind focused on the roots. Crypts
regard
> > >leaves as disposable.
> > >
> > >2. Crypts need light. They are green plants. Statements in some
aquarium
> > >literature that Crypts like to live in the dark are wrong. Crypts will
> need
> > >incandescent light, natural sunlight, or warm (red), grow-light type
> > >fluorescent lighting. Use about 40 watts incandescent for every ten
> gallon
> > >aquarium size, or about half that for fluorescent. Plants will do best
> when
> > >illuminated for 12 to 16 hours per day.
> > >
> > >3. Crypts need a moderate amount of nutrients. In the initial planting,
> > >nutrient will come from the substrate. Crypts will like nutrient
supplied
> > >by a little garden soil in the substrate or by adding a nutrient tab,
> such
> > >as a Jobe's stake, when planting. Don't go overboard.
> > >
> > >4. Most people will want to raise the plants underwater in their normal
> > >aquarium. You can set up the whole tank as a plant tank. But this will
> > >involve a serious commitment and is rather complex and maybe messy. It
> will
> > >be better for the beginner to plant the new Crypts in a flower pot or
> other
> > >container and place the pot into the tank. This is easy and minimally
> > >disruptive. Use a container that holds between a pint and a quart (0.5
to
> > >1.0 liter) of substrate.
> > >
> > >5. Substrate type is something that is the subject of endless
> > >experimentation. Here are two suggestions. First, take a terra cotta
> flower
> > >pot (clean). Add some (about and inch, 2.5 cm) pea gravel to the
bottom.
> > >Add a layer of fibrous peat moss (the kind that still looks like a moss
> > >plant), leaving enough room in the pot to add a final layer of pea
gravel
> > >at the top. Add a small pocket of garden soil or a nutrient tab, and
> plant
> > >the Crypt as you would any plant. Add the final layer of pea gravel and
> > >adjust the crown of the Crypt root to be even with the top of the
> > >substrate. Submerge the pot in the aquarium, situated under direct
light.
> > >Make sure your pot is quite heavy with this method, to avoid the
> > >possibility of tipping.
> > >
> > >The second method is similar. Fill the pot about half way with aquarium
> > >gravel. Add a pocket of garden soil or nutrient tab. Plant the Crypt
and
> > >fill the remainder of the pot with gravel. Situate the plant in the
> > >aquarium as before. In either case, insert some kind of permanent ID
tag
> > >into the container stating the date of potting and the identity of the
> > >plant (as much as can be stated).
> > >
> > >6. Wait. As mentioned, do not be unduly alarmed if you lose the
existing
> > >leaves. New ones should begin to emerge within a week or two. Crypt
> leaves
> > >grow slowly. It may take two weeks for an emerging leaf to mature. A
> > >typical Crypt in aquarium culture will get a new leaf about once every
> > >three to four weeks. By the time you get three new leaves, many Crypts
> will
> > >have begun to produce runners (usually below the substrate surface) and
> > >little plantlets will be seen. As long as the roots are not mushy there
> is
> > >hope.
> > >
> > >7. Plan to repot your plants after about a year or two years. The
plants
> > >will respond well and you will should find that your stock can be
> increased
> > >by division. Transplantation is much less traumatic than the plant's
> > >experience being transported and sold in the commercial market. So leaf
> > >loss is less or absent.
> > >
> > >8. Crypts like to grow in rather shallow situations. Submerge your
plants
> > >so that no more than about 10 inches (25 cm) of water column is above
the
> > >crown. Many people grow Crypts emerse, that is, where the leaves emerge
> > >from the water and grow in air. Emerse growth avoids risks of algae.
You
> > >are much more likely to get a bloom with emerse growth.
> > >
> > >9.  In a stable aquarium with fish, feeding for Crypts will likely be
> > >through foliar absorption. It is normally not necessary to feed your
> Crypts
> > >if the initial substrate has been built correctly and timely replanting
> is
> > >undertaken. Excess feeding will probably result in algae. If your fish
> are
> > >doing well, your Crypts will probably do well, too.
> > >
> > >10. If you have been successful on the level of culture represented
here,
> > >you are accomplished enough to begin adjusting your techniques. You
will
> > >find that certain Crypts have specific requirements. Actually, there
are
> > >species that absolutely will not grow if cultured as I have outlined.
But
> > >those are rare - probably because they need the special growing
> conditions.
> > >But what has been described will work for most Crypt species you are
> likely
> > >to find in normal commerce.
> > >
> > >
> > >I hope these suggestions are helpful and do not provoke controversy. I
> > >would solicit others to make additional comments or outline other
> schemes.
> > >I have done the Crypt thing for a long time now and lose plants only
> > >rarely. I throw out much material every month since space is always
> > >limited. The point is that the methods described will work in a normal
> > >hobbyist's set up. You do not need a greenhouse or fancy equipment just
> to
> > >get your plants to grow and reproduce.
> > >
> > >
> > >__________________________________________________________
> > >To unsubscribe, see http://lists.aquaria.net/plants/crypts
> > >
>

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