Re: Peat Moss vs. Oak Leaves

["Jody" <fishbox@bellsouth.net>]

> It's important to remember that it
> takes amounts of peat in excess of what's considered "normal" . . .

Unfortunately, I don't have any scales handy.  Approximately how much peat
in *volume* is in a gram, 5 grams, etc.?  A handful, two handfuls, a cup?

> The peat was sifted through a kitchen strainer to remove woody chunks

Like a collander used to drain pasta?  Is it laborious getting the peat to
go through those small holes?

> I used a Wardley's "Total Hardness" kit for the tests. It includes a test
> specifically for the calcium component, assuming the rest to be chiefly
> magnesium. I couldn't make the same assumption, but I _could_ put at least
> the calcium test to use. Hence the unusual "CH" - lacking a more apt
> abbreviation.

You have coined a new term!  I feel special just being a part of this
moment.

> Depends on the real reason behind purifying the water. But for simply
> increasing the acidity while effecting a minor adjustment in hardness,
then
> you are correct.

Just trying to create a nice, homey environment for my apistos and other
dwarfs : ), while at the same time, trying to leave *some* nutrients in the
water for the plants, although supplemental fertilization is also necessary.

> In the meantime, consider that at least there's a ready proton donor
> available for the ammonia - ammonium conversion...

Plus, keeping the pH lower keeps any ammonia present from becoming even more
toxic as at higher pH levels.  But then again, your comment is probably the
reason behind that.

Thanks,
Jody




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