RE: Reconstituting RO/DI Water

["Yvan Alleau" <yalleau@coas.oregonstate.edu>]

thanks for the info Mike J.
"a day where you don't learn anything is a wasted day" : well, today is
fulfilled!
let's try to learn some more !
thank you all for your good posts .
have a great week

Yvan Alleau
712 NW Kings Blvd
Corvallis, OR 97330
College of Oceanic and Atmospheric Sciences
Oregon State University
office (Burt 222): 737-3649, to be used wisely!
home: 738-0606

PLEASE NOTE NEW E-MAIL ADDRESS:
yalleau@coas.oregonstate.edu

"When you're far from everything, you're getting closer to the essential"


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-apisto@admin.listbox.com
[mailto:owner-apisto@admin.listbox.com]On Behalf Of Mike Jacobs
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2002 12:47 PM
To: apisto@listbox.com
Subject: Re: Reconstituting RO/DI Water


Yvan......it is a commercial product.  It's a white powder that you put into
R/O water to reconstitute the stuff....only in America Yvan......buy a unit
to take everything out and then buy a jar of powder to put stuff back
in.........I was just kidding......some people use R/O right to add buffers
and some "things" back in the R/O water.  Some fish can't take a pure dose
of R/O water people think........certainly not right from hard to pure R/O
for sure but honestly most experienced apisto people just cut the R/O with
tap water........depending on your tap water!

Mike

Mike Jacobs
Center for Advanced Technologies
High School Math Instructor
St. Pete, Fl.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Yvan Alleau" <yalleau@coas.oregonstate.edu>
To: <apisto@listbox.com>
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2002 2:35 PM
Subject: RE: Reconstituting RO/DI Water


> hi all,
> several person used the word "R/O Right": what is that "right" thing?
> thanks
>
> Yvan Alleau
> 712 NW Kings Blvd
> Corvallis, OR 97330
> College of Oceanic and Atmospheric Sciences
> Oregon State University
> office (Burt 222): 737-3649, to be used wisely!
> home: 738-0606
>
> PLEASE NOTE NEW E-MAIL ADDRESS:
> yalleau@coas.oregonstate.edu
>
> "When you're far from everything, you're getting closer to the essential"
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-apisto@admin.listbox.com
> [mailto:owner-apisto@admin.listbox.com]On Behalf Of Michael Kahlow
> Sent: Monday, March 25, 2002 6:55 AM
> To: apisto@listbox.com
> Subject: RE: Reconstituting RO/DI Water
>
>
>
>
> RO/DI water will not give accurate pH readings, either with dyes (test
kits)
> or electrodes.  (It's one of the first things that intro chem students
learn
> in the lab I teach ;-)  It ends up "taking on" whatever pH given to it by
> the buffering capacity/acidity/alkalinity of the water/substrate you add
it
> to.
>
> I would also avoid the "Instant Ocean".  If I remember my brief foray into
> saltwater correctly, the saltwater salts should give a pH of about 8.3.  I
> don't know what they would be at the lower concentration you would be
using,
> but it's not what you're shooting for.  Use the instant ocean for raising
> your BBS.
>
> I've been playing around lately with the boiling peat thing as an addition
> to my RO water, along with R/O Right.  I boil about 2 cups of sphagnum
peat,
> add about 1 tsp of baking soda, which helps to extract the desirable humic
> acids :) but also adds Na+ :( then add muriatic acid (HCl) if needed to
> bring the pH into the 5.5 - 6.5 range.   I get a couple of gallons of
really
> dark coffee-tinted water which I add to my 55 gallon about 1/3 gallon per
> water change.  May just be coincidence, but my tank has cleared from its
> perpetual green water/nasty algae cycle, my pH is more stable in the acid
> range, my plants are exploding, and my tetras (red minors and neons) are
> spawning darned near every morning.  (The rams _love_ to follow the red
> minors around and pick up the eggs!)
>
> michael kahlow
> michael.a.kahlow@uwrf.edu
>
>
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