Diary - July 28, 1997 This was my first day actually out in the wilds. We took a small plane to Tefe, one of the oldest cities in the Central Amazon area. Here the Amazon River gets large enough in one place where they actually call it Lake Tefe. Heiko had been here about one year ago and had a special place he wanted to go to collect some fish and photograph them. We hired a truck for the expedition and nearly got stuck one place where the ground was very boggy. We finally got to the site, but found nearby that there was a good deal of deforestation going on. Some areas were still smoldering from the fires. It was very depressing and Heiko was very upset. The foliage around the stream where we collected was very thick, so to get anywhere along the way, we had to actually walk through the water, sometimes as deep as chest high. Heiko would grab his one-person net, which was collapsible, and dive into the edge of the stream where the foliage was thickest. He would dip up piles of leaves with the net and come up with a surprising number of fishes. We collected a leaffish that I had to look at for several minutes before Heiko could convince me was really a fish at all! We also bagged a pair (mated) of Apistogrammas and some "electric fish" that I had never heard of before. Heiko took at least twice as much time photographing the fish carefully than it had taken him to catch them. I got lots of good photos, too. Later we went to visit a friend of Heiko's that had rescued some Manatees and were keeping them hoping to be able to breed them. It was a real adventure to see these odd creatures up close. Tonite we slept in Tefe at a hotel - our last chance at electricity. However, I found out that they turn off the electricity to the whole city at night. There went my air conditioning! Tomorrow we go on to Eirunipe, our last "civilized" stop before the jungle. == John ==