Daily Journal - August 3, 1997 Today was a very leisurely day. It began with church bells ringing at about 8:00 AM. It was interesting that about a block away from the church was a street vendor playing popular music. We had breakfast and afterwards decided that we were not going to be able to make any connection with anyone for collecting today. We did go down to the edge of the Juaru River to see if we could collect any fish from the shallows, but we had no luck. That evening Heiko and Paola treated me to fish soup made with the local catfish along with green beans and other items - - my first actual Brazilian meal since I got here. We made our plans for a very productive day tomorrow - our last day collecting. ==John== Reporting from Eirunepe Daily Diary - August 4, 1997 This day began very early with Heiko and I going to the local market where we saw a number of species of fish including Oscars, Arowanas, and several types of catfishes. We took photographs which will be available at a later date. At 7:30 AM we met with the person who would take us in his boat downriver. We took an approximate 3 hour boat trip in a fairly fast boat to a portion of the river where we would then make a cross-country trek to a particular area Heiko wanted to visit. Once we reached as far as the large boat would take us, we carried dugouts across an area of land approximately 200 yards to a different area. We went by dugout for approximately 30-45 minutes from there along the tributary. Along the way we noted areas where the tributary was fed by streams emerging from the ground. Heiko noted that this water was good to drink, so I got out of the dugout and went over to try some. It was, indeed, very tasty. However, I then noted a thrashing in the water about 10 feet away where the foliage was very dense. Heiko said not to worry that it was only a small alligator and that it would not be interested in me, but I was sure that was as close as I wanted to get to an alligator and I immediately got back into the dugout. We traveled up the tributary and pulled the dugouts up and then hiked for about an hour to an Indian village. The village actually had a small airstrip that had been built by the missionaries and had then been turned over to the Brazilian government. We went by the mission and were told that we could collect in the stream area. We went down to the stream which was black water with a pH of about 4.8 and immediately caught a number of fishes, many of which were probably new species, including an incredible Corydoras catfish. Shortly thereafter, a couple of Indians showed up and we noticed that we were beginning to draw attention. Soon, the Indian chief, whose name was Pedro, came over and he was quick to let us know he was not pleased to find us here. However, Paola took out some gummy bears and presented them to the children who were gathered around to watch. Before long the entire village was helping us collect and watching the proceedings. It was interesting for me to see that every adult male had some sort of tatooing or body etching and that even the youngest children were carrying bows and arrows. We collected there for quite a while and found an unusual species of Farowella as well as others. Heiko was especially delighted to find other examples of his new "intermediate" tetra. During our collecting efforts I drank quite a bit of the black water as it was very good. About the time we finished, there was a rainstorm and the entire trek back to the boat was under heavy, driving rain. Once in the boat again, it took us four hours to return to Eirunepe as the owner of the boat navigated a good bit of the way by flashlight down this fairly large river. We made it to Eirunepe shortly after 11:15, disappointed that we had missed the conference, but elated at our finds and our day of adventure. I personally, felt that I had met a challenge in that I had completed the trip even with the injury to my foot. Tomorrow morning I begin the trip home starting with my first plane ride at 7:30 AM. I will not arrive in Huntsville, Alabama, until about 9:00 AM on Wednesday. Once home, I will process more of the photographs for release, and will be able to share more about my experiences in the Amazon. ==John== Reporting from the Amazon