Re: New to list...lotsa Q's...

[IDMiamiBob <IDMiamiBob@aol.com>]

Okay- my turn

In a message dated 98-01-13 04:21:22 EST, Jesse writes:

<< I know nothing about Dwarf Cichlids, other than that they are very
> pretty, and I'm wondering if they any species would work well in a 10
> gallon aquarium that I'm planning on setting up. My limitations are that
> the tank is only ten gallons, and that I can only provide 15W of
> fluorescent lighting. Can I work dwarf cichlids into this setup? 

Sure, but if you plan to breed them, which, IMHO, is the best part of cichlid
keeping, you will need at least one more tank, once you have fry.

> If so, what are the requirements of dwarf cichlids? 

You're assuming that "dwarf cichlid" means a very narrow range of species, or
evven genera.  Fish from the Amazon waterways usually want soft water.  This
includes the majority of South American dwarfs.  Actaully, I can't think of
any SA dwarfs it wouldn't cover.  As  beginner i recommend you avoid the genus
Tricrossus, as they are really demanding in terms of water condition
requirements.  The others pretty much all want soft (60 ppm GH [about DH4] or
softer), acidic (pH 6.8 or lower) water.
But some East African dwarfs are rift lake fish and want hard water with pH
ranges of 7.8 to about 8.4.  These include but are not restricted to the genus
julidichromis, and the shell spawners.
>I understand they need peat filtering. Where do I find the peat for this? Do
I use peat
> moss or peat? I've tried putting some boiled portions of Hagen Peat
> Plates I had lying around, into my Aquaclear Mini, and as they color of
> the water didn't change to the diluted tea color I expected, I'm
> assuming I did something wrong.

Maybe you did, maybe you didn't.  Peat plates work.  I now prefer Sphagnum
peat moss, which is what the plates are made from.  You can obtain it at most
garden shops.  Be sure to get SPHAGNUM, and nothing else, as nothing else is
as reliable.  You can put it in a nylon bag and insert it into a filter, or
anything else you want to try.  Boil it for ten minutes before using, to kill
anything in it, and to "activate" its chemical properties.
    But again, it's not the peat you are interested in as much as hardness.
Peat is just one way to make it softer and more acidic.  For a beginner it is
easier to do it using Mardel's new conditioners, Tank Soft and Tank Hard+.
They are simple accurate, and reliable.  Use as per the instructions on the
bottle.  Which one you want depends on the current hardness of your tap water,
and the type of fish you settle on starting with (Yea, now you need to do your
homework, and figure out what you want, and also what you can get- this can be
tricky depending on whether you live in a large city or small community, and
whether you are willing to mail-order your fish in)
 
> Also, what be an adequate filter? I've used Aquaclear Minis in the past
> and liked them.

I personally use mostly undergravel filters and sponge filters.  If it is a
rearing tank for fry, or a hatching tank for artificial hatching, I use only
sponges.  For tanks with adults, you have lots of choices.
 
> How many of which sexes of which species (whew!) can I keep in the above
> mentioned setup?

One pair.  with smaller apistos, you can keep one male and two females.  With
julies, up to five fish.  with shell spawners, probably 2 pairs.

> Also, what (if any) would make suitable tankmates?

Schooling tetras (this means not your Emperors) west african killies, and
hatchets seem to be the most popular tank mates with apistos.  I've decided
that apistos don't really need them.  Most other dwarfs, particularly julies,
do best without them.
    In one of your responses to the many responses, you mention wanting to
keep a pleco.  They are okay as far as your fish go, but they WILL eat the
eggs.

> Finally, what do they eat? 

Again- what species are you going to keep?
 
Your questions are very general in nature.  You need to make more decisions.  
You also mention getting a report from your water authority.  I've found they
are pretty unreliable, sometimes several years old.  Your actual water
conditions can vary greatly from winter to summer, or spring to fall,
depending on where you live.  Get a hardness test kit, and a pH test kit.
They are less than $5 each at your LFS, and you can get much better control of
your tank by testing and adjusting yourself.

Bob Dixon