Re: New to list...lotsa Q's...

[jessem <jessem@direct.ca>]

IDMiamiBob wrote:
> 
> Okay- my turn
> 
> In a message dated 98-01-13 04:21:22 EST, Jesse writes:
> 
> << I know nothing about Dwarf Cichlids, other than that they are very
> > pretty, and I'm wondering if they any species would work well in a 10
> > gallon aquarium that I'm planning on setting up. My limitations are that
> > the tank is only ten gallons, and that I can only provide 15W of
> > fluorescent lighting. Can I work dwarf cichlids into this setup?
> 
> Sure, but if you plan to breed them, which, IMHO, is the best part of cichlid
> keeping, you will need at least one more tank, once you have fry.

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Hmm. I have two 10 gallon tanks. One currently has emperor tetras, and
clown plecos. It is filtered by an Aquaclear Mini and a UGF powered by a
Aquaclear 201 powerhead. I'd be willing to let go of the current
occupants to make room for the Apistos. 

The other tank (10g) is empty. 
- ----- 

> > If so, what are the requirements of dwarf cichlids?
> 
> You're assuming that "dwarf cichlid" means a very narrow range of species, or
> evven genera.  Fish from the Amazon waterways usually want soft water.  This
> includes the majority of South American dwarfs.  Actaully, I can't think of
> any SA dwarfs it wouldn't cover.  As  beginner i recommend you avoid the genus
> Tricrossus, as they are really demanding in terms of water condition
> requirements.  The others pretty much all want soft (60 ppm GH [about DH4] or
> softer), acidic (pH 6.8 or lower) water.
> But some East African dwarfs are rift lake fish and want hard water with pH
> ranges of 7.8 to about 8.4.  These include but are not restricted to the genus
> julidichromis, and the shell spawners.

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Sorry. When I said Dwarf Cichlids, I was referring to cichlids that
belong to the genus Apistogramma. I'll be more clear in future posts.
- -----

> >I understand they need peat filtering. Where do I find the peat for this? Do
> I use peat
> > moss or peat? I've tried putting some boiled portions of Hagen Peat
> > Plates I had lying around, into my Aquaclear Mini, and as they color of
> > the water didn't change to the diluted tea color I expected, I'm
> > assuming I did something wrong.
> 
> Maybe you did, maybe you didn't.  Peat plates work.  I now prefer Sphagnum
> peat moss, which is what the plates are made from.  You can obtain it at most
> garden shops.  Be sure to get SPHAGNUM, and nothing else, as nothing else is
> as reliable.  You can put it in a nylon bag and insert it into a filter, or
> anything else you want to try.  Boil it for ten minutes before using, to kill
> anything in it, and to "activate" its chemical properties.
>     But again, it's not the peat you are interested in as much as hardness.
> Peat is just one way to make it softer and more acidic.  For a beginner it is
> easier to do it using Mardel's new conditioners, Tank Soft and Tank Hard+.
> They are simple accurate, and reliable.  Use as per the instructions on the
> bottle.  Which one you want depends on the current hardness of your tap water,
> and the type of fish you settle on starting with (Yea, now you need to do your
> homework, and figure out what you want, and also what you can get- this can be
> tricky depending on whether you live in a large city or small community, and
> whether you are willing to mail-order your fish in)

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Ok.
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> > Also, what be an adequate filter? I've used Aquaclear Minis in the past
> > and liked them.
> 
> I personally use mostly undergravel filters and sponge filters.  If it is a
> rearing tank for fry, or a hatching tank for artificial hatching, I use only
> sponges.  For tanks with adults, you have lots of choices.

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When people talk of 'sponge filters', are they referring to the small,
air driven filters (Hagen has a couple models)?
- -----
 
> > How many of which sexes of which species (whew!) can I keep in the above
> > mentioned setup?
> 
> One pair.  with smaller apistos, you can keep one male and two females.  With
> julies, up to five fish.  with shell spawners, probably 2 pairs.
> 
> > Also, what (if any) would make suitable tankmates?
> 
> Schooling tetras (this means not your Emperors) west african killies, and
> hatchets seem to be the most popular tank mates with apistos.  I've decided
> that apistos don't really need them.  Most other dwarfs, particularly julies,
> do best without them.
>     In one of your responses to the many responses, you mention wanting to
> keep a pleco.  They are okay as far as your fish go, but they WILL eat the
> eggs.

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Ok.
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> > Finally, what do they eat?
> 
> Again- what species are you going to keep?

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Probably A. cacatuoides.
- -----
 
> Your questions are very general in nature.  You need to make more decisions.
> You also mention getting a report from your water authority.  I've found they
> are pretty unreliable, sometimes several years old.  Your actual water
> conditions can vary greatly from winter to summer, or spring to fall,
> depending on where you live.  Get a hardness test kit, and a pH test kit.
> They are less than $5 each at your LFS, and you can get much better control of
> your tank by testing and adjusting yourself.
> 
> Bob Dixon

- -----
Again, I'll try to be more specific in the future. 
I've just had a report from my water authority mailed to me. I hope it
will be of some use (even if were only to find out whether there is
chloramine in my water supply, it will have been helpful). 

As for my tap water hardness and pH, I have test kits for both:
Hardness is measured at less than 10 ppm (Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Inc.
test kit).
pH is measured at ~6.2 (Fritz test kit).

Thanks for your advice, Bob.
- ----- 

- -- 
Jesse Mathies
Surrey, British Columbia
Canada
mailto:jessem@direct.ca