Jay, First of all, your pH and Hardness values look fine. What you should be concerned about are the nitrate and phosphate levels. You need to bring these down. In addition, you need to get your algae (especially the slime) under control. These two goals are related. This algae is most likely choking out your plants. Here are my recommendations, with a little explanation: 1) Check how much you are feeding your fish. Be especially careful not to overfeed. Excessive feeding can be a major source of chemical imbalances, especially nitrate and phosphate. (Don't underfeed either, though. Some people have starved their fish to death in the hopes of controlling their water chemistry.) 2) Increase your water changes for the next few weeks/months. Make sure you are using pure water. (Either get yourself an R/O unit or use the water from the fish store you mentioned.) Make sure to vacuum the gravel bed thoroughly with each water change. 3) Change to a different gravel. If the gravel you are using really is "Bits of walnut", it will decay over time in the fish tank and increase your levels of organics, phosphates, and nitrates in the water, as well as decreasing your oxygen levels. Personally, I use a layer of Flourite covered with a layer of sand. The sand helps prevent my fish from injuring themselves on the Flourite. I understand the temptation to use organic matter as a substrate. Your plants probably loved it early on. But the eventual decay can carry a heavy price. I am of the opinion that your fish, with the wastes they produce, will provide ample nutrition for the majority of plants. 4) Use less chemicals. The simpler your regimen, the fewer points at which the system can break down. The only R/O water conditioning product I like is Aquarium Pharm.'s Electro-Right. This is a simple solution of electrolytes and trace elements, with no extra buffers. I would only worry about increasing the hardness if you have plants that cannot tolerate excessively low hardness values. If you feel the need to use a nutrition supplement for your plants, I would recommend one of the Kent products. 5) Change your peat more often. It 'wears out' after only a week or two. 6) Decrease your lighting period to around 8-hours for the next two weeks. This will diminish the amount of light the algae are receiving and help to kill it. It also affects your plants, but because they are larger and more robust, they will usually outlast the algae. 7) Consider adding a "do it yourself" carbon dioxide generator to the tank. This is cheap and will give your plants a boost, in addition to helping to stabilize your pH in an acidic state. Basically, these recommendations have two goals: 1) The increased water changes and decreased lighting period are intended to manage the problem in the short term. The water changes will help to decrease the levels of phosphate, nitrate, and organics in the tanks in an immediate fashion. The decreased lighting will help to kill the algae in the short term. 2) Changing your substrate, decreasing the number of different chemicals you are putting into the system, and controlling your feeding are intended to manage the levels of nitrate, phosphate, and organics in the system in the long term by managing your inputs to the system. In my system, I use only deionized water with no additional chemicals for my water changes. This maintains my hardness values close to zero and pH between 5.0 and 6.0. I change 25% of the water weekly, vacuuming thoroughly each time. Right now, I use power filters with a sponge and filter floss in each filter. I change the filter floss once a week and rinse the sponges around once every 2 months. Basically, I rely on the food I feed my fish, and the subsequent wastes they produce, as the only source of nutrients. However, I keep mainly sword plants, cabomba, myaca, java moss, and java ferns (the java's for their filtering ability), all of which can tolerate an almost complete lack of hardness. I still have occassional outbreaks of slime algae (I feed my growing out tanks fairly heavily). I simply siphon off the slime algae with each water change and decrease the amount of food I give the tank for about a week. I hope this helps some... Good luck, --Cliff ------------------------------------------------------------------------- This is the apistogramma mailing list, apisto@majordomo.pobox.com. For instructions on how to subscribe or unsubscribe or get help, email apisto-request@majordomo.pobox.com. Search http://altavista.digital.com for "Apistogramma Mailing List Archives"!