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Re: water hardness

I'll add to what Mike and David said.

Yes, R/O Right adds the ionic content that its company has chosen. For Apistos, which are relatively easy to induce to spawn, this should not be a problem. I do know that some very challenging species (Rummy-nose) requires the right combination/ratio of ions to increase the likelihood of them spawning and of the fry surviving. So I have a collection of basic chemicals (CaSO4, MgSO4, CaCl, KCl,...) that, in theory, allow me to produce just the right ionic balance. I don't use this method often, but I have played with it a bit. But again, for Apistos, a little R/O right should work for most species.

An R/O unit removes most everything, but it is not quite pure like DI water is. I, too, often use pure r/o water for certain tanks with no problems. The acclimation, though, should be somewhat gradual -- I've lost fish from the abrupt change. But I think that straight r/o works because some of the "impurities" are still present. What would be shocking is to use straight DI water on a regular basis with no ill-effect.

David is right about the waters found in the native streams. Look at some of the charts in good aquarium books and you'll find super low conductivity, and pH reading that, in some localities, fall to the low 4's and even below. Regarding my take on low pH: http://characin.com/carey/articles/98/how_low.html


At 04:50 AM 10/4/2001, you wrote:
Hi All,
just curious, How does one get their water down to a trace hardness without adding strait RO? I heard adding strait RO was a bad thing. My logic says that if there is already 150ppm then adding strait RO would bring it down. Is my logic wrong?

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