Re: pH hell- elaboration of facts for Bob Dixon

[IDMiamiBob@aol.com]

In a message dated 2/13/99 11:06:05 AM Mountain Standard Time,
alexp@idirect.com writes:

> I am using a DI unit that removes both positive and negative ions.  It is
>  not something that exchanges Ca and Mg for Na or anything like that.

Then the 2:1 DI/tap ratio shold give you what you need for the fish, except
possibly the pH, which can be adjusted with homebrew or commercial non-
phosphoric PH adjuster.  Expect a little battle with the remaining carbonate
hardness, which will try to buffer it back up.
  
>  BTW if you measure the Tetra Black Water extract, you will find that it
>  contains phosphate.  If the amount of light you are providing the tank is
>  relatively low then there is no problem.  However, when the tank is getting
>  close to 3 watts per gallon, amazing things happen. 

I have 90 watts of Triton over my 30 gallon.  I'm using TankSoft with no
problem.  I haven't used Black Water extract in twenty years, so you may be
right about the phosphorus levels.  I think I'll mix some WOW with some tap
water and see if I can measure a difference.  Any suggestions about a good
phosphate test kit, anyone?

>I didn't have a problem
>  with this product or Mardel's WOW until I added more light to the aquarium.
>  Unfortunately, I cannot keep SAEs in the smaller tanks.  The four I have in
>  the 120 are doing a marvelous job at keeping algae under control.  Some
>  algae is fine.  But there are limits.  When it takes over everything and
the
>  plants become unrecognizable, then it's a major problem.

I'm having this problem in a poorly planted, well-lit fry tank right now.  I
just changed the lights.
  
>  I think this is a time-limited problem.  I just have to do enough water
changes

A lot of our Algae problems are time-limited, provided we get the causal
realtionship for the algae under control.  I think you may have isolated your
cause, and water changes are probably curative.

Bob


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