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Re: [GSAS-Member] CO2 Question
Erik,
I have two solenoids, that’s why the timers become a pain. My setup is
regulator-manifold-solenoid(each port)-needle valve (attached to each
solenoid)-bubble counter (attached to each needle valve) - tank. I think
the whether you can put the needle valve right on the solenoid depends on
the valve. I hear you can't do that with Fabco valve, you have to run them
in line. I do think most people put the solenoid right on the manifold
though.
Kypros
On Sat, Oct 17, 2009 at 11:06 PM, Erik Olson <erik@thekrib.com> wrote:
> Kypros, do you have one solenoid for the entire rig, or do you run one per
> needle valve? And if the latter, where do you place the solenoid in the
> flow? (i.e. right at the needle valve, right near the tank, etc.)
>
> Also, where do you obtain your metal check valves?
>
> Remember that "super experienced" can also mean "have just done the same
> dumb things for a long time." :)
>
> - Erik
>
> On Sat, 17 Oct 2009, Hostetter, Kypros wrote:
>
> > I agree you will have to have three needle valves. I have a Sumo
> regulator
> > with a dual manifold and I have the solenoids. It felt better to me to
> give
> > the co2 a break at, and they work fine for me, running about 25 feet for
> > each line. But I know that many super experienced guys like Erik go
> without
> > solenoids. Also it can kind of be annoying to run that many timers using
> > the Solenoids. I got the swagelok needle valves, little cheaper than the
> > Ideal valves, and they seem to work pretty well. Sumo could rig it all up
> > for you, including the bubble counters-makes it easy, but not cheap.
> You'll
> > love switching out from DIY, though. I too use the black drip line per
> > Erik's suggestion, real cheap! If you dont like the black entering your
> > tank, you can buy a small amount of flexible C02 line and just use it
> where
> > it it visible, and connect it to your black cheap line via the check
> valve
> > you will need anyway. By the way, get brass check valves. When I was
> doing
> > DIY CO2 I got away with plastic check valves, but they quickly failed
> under
> > the higher pressure CO2. As an alternative to the reactors you can use
> > cheap glass ADA knockoff diffusers, they work pretty well too. *
> > E.g., *
> >
> http://cgi.ebay.com/Rhinox-5000-Glass-CO2-diffuser-Pollen-Aquarium-Beetle_W0QQitemZ250305228880QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3a475ab050
> >
> > Finally, if you do get the JBJ bubble counters, dont make the mistake I
> did
> > and let them run after the water evaporates, I cracked both of mine when
> > they were dry and had to replace them.
> >
> >
> >
> > On Sat, Oct 17, 2009 at 7:42 PM, Erik Olson <erik@thekrib.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Hi John,
> >>
> >> I think you'll need to have three needle valves for this to work. You
> >> cannot split the line downstream of the needle valve to two separate
> >> reactors, unless each has significant back-pressure (such as a glass
> >> diffusor). What generally happens is that one of the tanks gets all the
> >> bubbles, and the second at best gets none, and at worst, acts as a
> siphon
> >> from the first tank.
> >>
> >> I run five tanks off the same CO2 regulator, but I recently purchased a
> >> hexo-manifold (see attached photo) for about the same price as a single
> >> ideal valve. It does a decent enough job so far and it's stylish chrome
> >> matches the overkill regulator I bought at the same time.
> >>
> >> In terms of tubing, straight vinyl airline should do the trick just
> fine. I
> >> use black vinyl from Home Depot (for drip irrigation lines). It's the
> same
> >> size as airline.
> >>
> >> Do not use silicone tubing.
> >>
> >> I'm one of those folks that don't use solenoids & never have -- I
> received
> >> one recently & considered trying it, but am concerned about the effect
> of
> >> shutting one off upstream of the needle valves on very long runs to
> multiple
> >> tanks. I may try it on a different regulator that only has a single
> output.
> >>
> >> I really like the aluminum tanks. They weigh significantly less than
> the
> >> steel, and have a nice handle. Get a 20# if you can afford it --
> swap-out
> >> cost is almost the same at Central, but it'll last longer (especially
> >> feeding three aquariums!).
> >>
> >> Hope this helps!
> >>
> >> - Erik
> >>
> >>
> >> On Sat, 17 Oct 2009, J Clouse wrote:
> >>
> >> I've been running three DIY CO2 setups for some time, and now I'm ready
> to
> >>> step up to a pressurized system. My research to date has me leaning
> >>> towards
> >>> the following, but I wanted to check with the group before I make any
> >>> investments.
> >>>
> >>> <http://sumoregulator.com/PremierLine.html>10 lb aluminum tank
> (Central
> >>> Welding?)
> >>> Sumo regulator <http://sumoregulator.com/PremierLine.html>
> >>> (2) Ideal 52-1-12 metering valves
> >>> (2) JBJ bubble counter
> >>> (2) Red Sea CO2 500 reactor
> >>> Flexible CO2 tubing (though I'm tempted to use something cheaper...)
> >>>
> >>> In looking at the options, it seems like running 24/7 without a
> solenoid
> >>> and
> >>> possibly running an airstone at night seems to be the simplest setup
> with
> >>> the least risk to pH (just uses up more CO2).
> >>>
> >>> I would like to use this setup to run *three* tanks. Two tanks in the
> >>> basement using the Red Sea reactors (running off of a the output of one
> of
> >>> the metering valves. The third tank is on the floor directly above the
> >>> basement setup. I would like to run the output of the second metering
> >>> valve
> >>> into a venturi on the intake of a Magnum 350 (currently doing this with
> >>> (2)
> >>> DIY bottles).
> >>>
> >>> Any mistakes you can help avoid? Any recommendations for a simpler
> setup?
> >>>
> >>> Cheers,
> >>> John
> >>>
> >>>
> >> --
> >> Erik Olson Sent
> from
> >> my crusty old Linux box
> >> erik at thekrib dot com
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> >>
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>
> --
> Erik Olson Sent from
> my crusty old Linux box
> erik at thekrib dot com
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